Anything and everything Vitesse.

Clutch, gearbox, overdrive, propeller shaft.

I am re-fitting the overdrive gearbox to my Vitessse (mk II) after a 4 year gap, whilst I rebuilt various bits of car. Its a recon g/box from canley classics, and the engine has a new clutch.

I can't get the gearbox further than the top studs, and the rear prop flange still sitting on the transmission tunnel, even though engine mount bolts slacked off.

Have check clutch is aligned.

Any ideas?

Andy

Are you sure that it is the correct clutch plate? I'd take it off and try the plate on the input shaft

to check if it is the correct one and

to make sure that the splines arn't burred over or anything, although that is unlikely to say the least!

Mark

I know it may be teaching grandmother to suck eggs, but have you tried turning the gearbox output shaft (with a gear engaged) while trying to slide the gearbox forward? This ensures that the gearbox input shaft will find the gaps in the clutch plate. You also need to be sure the gearbox is approaching the engine dead square, which is not always so easy to achieve with the limited space and length/weight of an overdrive gearbox. You may need to adjust the height of the rear of the engine to adjust that angle, but be careful not to jack too high or the top of the bellhousing may foul the heater air distribution box.
While having a helper who is prepared to grovel on their back under the car and help juggle the gearbox angle and position from underneath is ideal, you may wish to have a look at a previous thread on this subject a few months ago. (Sorry, can't remember exactly where!)
The idea was to fit a pair of long studs to the top of the engine block. You can slide the top of the bellhousing onto these studs which will then support and align (in a rotational sense) the front of the gearbox, allowing you to concentrate on rotating the output shaft and fine-tuning the angle of the box to allow it to slide fully into position.

Having done this recently to the Silverback, it is still the pig of a job that I remember, especially single handed.

Two tips:
1/ Make sure, very sure, that your cluch plate is centered. I did so with a clutch centering tool, but either my workmanship or the nature of the multisized tool was cr*p. The ideal tool is an old input shaft, but not many will have one. Suggest that you inspect the angle that the tool you do use is exactly at right angle to the clutch assembly in all directions, and then inspect the plate under the cover for centrality. A strong light and a mirror may help! (Oooooooooh, matron!)
2/ It can be difficult to grasp and turn the output shaft as suggested above to help the input shaft fine the splines. The home made tool shown can help do this.

Good luck!
John

I found that my ancient clutch alignment tool had centers either too big or too small for both the bearing in the flywheel and the clutch plate. The solution was to choose the ones just too small and increase with insulating tape until just right. Still working perfectly many years later!

I ve used for years a large promotion cadbury's pencil, and with a point and tape made it fit just about anything there is
its been most universal and still writes as well,, The idea of long studs is a good well tried idea that takes the load off the disc
and saves the risk of distorting the disc hub with the weight of the transmission hanging on it Peter

I think the secret is getting the engine back plate parallel with the bell housing with the upper studs dead in line, a jack under the sump and a trolley jack under the gearbox. Get them both aligned and while turning the prop end of the shaft gently push....and then think of something else!

thanks for all yr advice guys, i will be tackling this again, this weekend (once i have my strength back!)
Andy

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Refitting Gearbox

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