Anything and everything Vitesse.

Clutch, gearbox, overdrive, propeller shaft.

Hi,
I think I have identified the horrible noise which my Vitesse makes as being the propshaft. Moving off there is a slight knock as it begins to pull but is smooth and easy in frst and second gears. Changing to third makes a horrible noise and fourth only changes the speed at which the same noise pattern changes; overdrive, the same.
If I let off the power quickly then you get the knock again but the horrible noise disappears but can also come under braking.

It seems that any time the propshaft is under load, whether it be engine driving car or vice versa, then I get the horrible noise.

The car is recently bought and I'd like to know where to start looking and whether to change CVs, do the whole shaft, or whether it is something totally different.

Canley's description of the propshaft problem is accurate but not thorough enough to diagnose my situation.

Any hints?

Hi, it couild be either the drive shafts or propshaft universal joints. The only way to find out is to get under the car and using a beefy screwdriver see if you can detect any movment, even slight movement means they need replacing. It's a fiddly job but not a difficult one to replace them if you're used to wielding spanners and have a decent vice or press, but if you're not used to DIY motoring then I'd find a local garage to to change them for you.

I'm by no means an expert like some of the members out there, but make sure there's enough oil in the diff. I had a 2000 estate once that made lots of noise due to no oil in diff. Start easy... I've read overdrives can cause a lot of problems.... My Vit. has two Jubilee clips round the prop shaft it to balance it!

None of the above is probably of any relevence but who knows. Good luck with it.

Finn

Thanks,

The car is new to me and, due to the weather, I've not had the chance to investigate properly but I want to know where to look.

I've also just discovered that the car has been converted to overdrive. If the rear mounting plate was not installed, could this be the cause of the excess movement?

I'll not be able to get to it for a few days yet but having changed a couple of Herald gearboxes, I'm not afraid of doing the work.

The Herald gearbox is different from the Vitesse hence not a lot of use in this case. Not to sure if you just have a nasty noise or there is a lot of play some where as well as a nasty noise. So I have try to cover both points

To answer your question re the mounting plate. Yes if it has not been correct fitted or the rear gearbox mount may be at fault this could cause movement. Though the general cause of most knocks are things like the UJ's on the prop or halfshafts. The other area to look is for lose bolts that hold the drive flanges together on the prop and the halfshafts.

On final thought is it maybe something simple like the prop touching something around the prop tunnel causing the noise e.g. A self tapping screw holding down the prop cover just behide the gearbox.

Jason

I had a similar noise appear shortly after buying my vitesse (mk2) even though I inspected everything in a pit! The knocking happened under heavy (ish) breaking and quick acceleration, even sometimes going round rh corners. It turned out this was due to the rotoflex couplings disintegrating, the rubber sections had split away from the metal parts. Obviously, I'm assuming you have a rotoflex car, but all you need do is jack up each side in turn, take off the wheel and inspect the coupling. It will be under strain so will look distorted, this is normal, but there should not be any large cracks or gaps between the rubber and metal parts of the coupling.

It's a bit of a nightmare to replace them too as you need to borrow some special tools, but not impossible as I've just finished doing mine.

John

Thanks folks,

It would appear to be the UJs. The propshaft can rotate about 3mm without turning the gearbos or diff. end plates. This seems excessive to me and, at least at the gearbox end, is the clunk I hear when changing the load conditions.

Is this a fair diagnosis?

Any tips or techniques to know about before I get down there?

New UJs then, it is!

There should be NO play at all in a rotational sense in the propshaft u/j's so it looks like you have found the problem! (Unless it is the splines in any sliding joint. IF that's the case, you need a new prop.)

First advice, is don't wait to change the u/j's. They will deteriorate rapidly and can damage the shaft if left too long.
Mark the position of both ends of the propshaft in relation to the gearbox/diff flanges and the take the propshaft out. (This means you can put it back in exactly the same position.)
If you wnat an easy life, now get an exchange propshaft!
If you want to try it yourself, mark the position of the flanges in relation to the shaft itself, again so the bits go back exactly where they were.
Any workshop manual can tell you how to change the u/j's. The problem is getting the cups out after you have pushed them half way out with the combination of sockets. A mole wrench done up VERY tight is my favourite.
Be very careful to push the new cups in absolutely square and make sure you do not get a needle dislodged in the cup.
For preference I'd use new u/j's with a grease nipple hole (you have to fit the nipple separately as there is not enough space to leave it in situ, but the sealed for life ones are ok.
Put verything back together the way it was originally and refit to the car.
If you are in luck, you now have a peaceful and smooth drive.
If you arer unlucky, the propshaft will be slightly out of balance. You may notice this as vibration at one (or both) of two speeds; 40ish and 75ish.
If this is so, you can try repositioning the propshaft in relation to the gearbox and/or diff flanges, but more than likely you'll need to get the shaft professionally balanced. It CAN be done in situ with jubilee clips (the process has been described on this messageboard or the GT6 one before) but it really is easier to get it done by a specialist.

Well, the job is nearly done but not refitted to the car yet.

I notice that the joints seem a bit stiff. Is this normal?

I rather thought that they would be smoother but am surprised that they need so much pressure to move them.

Anyway, they'll be back on the car tomorrow so I'll see how much better it is to drive and report back to you as necessary.

Thanks for your replies, chaps.

A new joint is always stiff to move by hand but should be smooth with no notchiness.

All refitted and test driven. What a difference!!!

Thanks all for your comments.

Section : Gearbox

Propshaft Noise.

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Propshaft Noise.

Propshaft Noise.

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Propshaft Noise.

Propshaft Noise.

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Propshaft Noise.

Propshaft Noise.