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Posted By : Richard Jensen, 13-Aug-2003,
07:22pm
My TR6 has recently destroyed the clutch. It's making a hell of a racket and suspect broken or bent bits on the pressure plate. Engine has performance
parts.
Does anybody know which of the two clutches for the TR6 is the most robust and suitable for an uprated engine. The Borg and Beck or the Laycock. The Borg
and Beck does look a little more solid in the catalogue. Has anyone any experiences with them?
Regards
Rick
PS Top Gear episode with TR6 review is being repeated this Friday 15th August at 7pm on UK Horizons and an hour later at 8pm on UK horizons +1.
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Posted By : Graham Reeks, 14-Aug-2003,
09:25am
A little tip that might save you some time Richard, when you do the clutch (although you might already know).
"The tapered pin holding the release fork to the cross shaft often cracks or breaks. This can be the reason for clutch-drag - caused by part of the
slave cylinder push rod travel being taken up by movement between the fork and the cross shaft. When carrying out any work involving the removal of the
engine, gearbox or both from the car, the opportunity should be taken to replace the pin while access to it is easy, wether it appears to need
replacing or not.
Correct seating of the pin in the cross shaft is important. Ensure that any broken parts of the pin are removed from the fork and shaft. Also, the
taper angle of the pin should correspond to that in the hole in the cross shaft. Trial fitment of the pin in the hole in the cross shaft without the
presence of the release fork will bring to light any irregularities in the two components. If the pin wobbles in the hole, it may be 'lapped' into a
better fit. If the amount of lapping required is excessive, replacement of the clutch cross shaft or the tapered pin may be necessary"
Admittedly not my words, but I've seen this twice so it might even be what's happened to yours.
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Posted By : Rick Jensen, 14-Aug-2003,
10:50am
Thanks for the info Graham. Yes it could be what's happened to mine. As the clutch is released and then as the torque from the engine accelerates
the car there is an awful sort of squealing/grinding noise and the car sort of jerks a bit as if there is clutch slip but something sounds broken.
Once driving in 2nd, 3rd and 4th the noise is only apparent immediately after the clutch is released. I
It runs fine once everything is engaged. I did think at first it was the gearbox but that seems to be fine. Incidently the overdrive stopped
working just before it happened. If you depress the clutch in neutral and then very quickly let it out, you get a short version of the noise.
Something's definitely broken in there.
When the gearbox is removed, can it be dropped from underneath the car or does it have to be accessed through the floor?
I will take your advice though about the fork and pin.
Regards
Rick
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Posted By : Graham Reeks,
14-Aug-2003, 11:09am
It's easy enough to pull out through the car ... take the seats out first though.