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Hi all

I have quite a few body repairs to do on my GT6.
Main one is to tear off the rotten front roof lip and get some new metal in there.

Im looking for a MIG welding setup and having read quite a bit im not sure what to go for. I did a fair bit of MIG welding years ago but that was using a very expensive industrial setup and never on any material as thin as bodywork.

I have read that to achieve good results on thin material you need to get down to about 24A. However, im looking at the Clarke range, probably the 130TE or the 151TE and these only go down to 30A.

The rational behind the 130 or the 150 is size/reliability of the internal transformer. Rightly or wrongly I assume a larger capacity might give be a better quality weld even at lower Amps than say a 90A system, if you know what I mean? Sort of bigger is better even for the thin stuff. Is my assumption correct?
If thatÂ’s not the case then I may as well go for a smaller unit as 90% of its application will be on metal up to 3mm thick and IÂ’ll save a few quid. I donÂ’t mind spending the money but I donÂ’t want to buy a large unit if the smaller would suffice for the bulk of my work. Having said that, with bodywork itÂ’s the weld finish that needs to be good and I donÂ’t want to cut corners.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks - Andy

Andy, I have a GT6 roof with a good front that I have been hoarding for the past 10 years, I would love the opportunity to pass it on, now that I have given up with the idea of roof and cars

please cget in touch if it woyld be helpful

Jonathan Binnington

Andrew,
IMHO don't go for less than 100amps - you WILL want to weld thicker metal some time, when the greater power will be needed, and small welders come without a cooling fan. Longer welding sessions, even on thin stuff, lead to the thermal cut-out, er, cutting out. It can take HOURS to cool down again, so that's you stuffed for welding for the rest of the day.
In the past, stuck with a small welder, I 'improved' it by strapping a fan on the side, which prolonged welding time indefinitely, but that's no recommendation for the smaller welder. Buy one with a fan built in.

Also, small welders come with gas connections for small disposable bottles. Renting a non-disposable bottle is an additional cost, but if you want to do so much welding that you are considering buying a welder, then you'll find that you have to buy new throwaways rather often, and they are a LOT more expensive than a rented bottle. And you will have to buy the connection for the rented. So buy a welder with a full sized gas bottle connection.

Of course, if you can do a deal with the Binman, you don't need any of this! A much better option, IMHO!

JOhn

I invested in a SiP 130 turbo (with fan) Its bloody tough which you need when its being dragged around a scruffy garage in the middle of the summer (why do we decide to weld our cars on the hottest day of the year??). You will also need a variety of clamps and spare tips and nozzles. Machine Mart is always a good place to go drool. They are currently selling the Clarke135TE (30 - 130amp) complete with gas regulator and bottle etc for Â£187.98, which I think is a good price.

The biggest welders come with castors, but this size won't.
First thing you do is buy two industrial castors and a length of angle iron.
Make your own welder trolly!
Excellent exercise in welding, before you start on the 'real' stuff.
Don't forget to make a little platform at the back for your gas cylinder.

John

If I had any sense John..................!

Great advice gents and much appreciated but will the 130A or 150A be OK for body panels when turned right down?

Andy

Yes they will be fine. I would avoid the 150 as it may be too much for your average garage fuse (unless you have a ringmain in your garage). Its all down to clean metal, a good earth, and practice! Have fun..

Andy

I bought a SIP Migmate 130 turbo a while back and have used it for chassis and bodywork on my vitesse with no probs, even using the gasless option.

The only problems I've had with it have been related to the dodgy wire feed mechanism and plastic sleeve which result in hours lost trying to get the wire feeding properly. They've apparently fixed this on the new models.

Clarke do an equivalent model, which might be the better option.

John

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