Your recommendations and experiences with workshop tools and restoration tips.

General Tools and Techniques messages

Just been having a hell of a problem helping the old man with his Acclaim, won't bore you with the details but it turns out the torque wrench he bought back in "1969 or thereabouts" doesn't work and in fact probably never has. Now it's not something I have ever really used, the same one caused me lots of grief changing the waterpump on a mini many years ago and I have learned to get by without one since. I have never had anything fall off and haven't stripped any threads for years, just by going on feel and experience. Trouble is I have to build up an engine when I get the block and crank back from machining and obviously things are a little more critical as the first sign of trouble will be a loud bang! Not so worried about the bottom end as the cylinder head, everything I have ever read about head work takes it for granted that a torque wrench is essential. Has anyone ever done the job without one and what happened long-term? But more likely I want to know where I can get a reasonably good one (that needs to be simple to use and reliable) for a sensible price and probably mail order. Any advice welcomed!

Dan, I managed with a torque wrench for over 25 years without any problems but it always bothered me in case it led to premature and expensive failure. When I bought my Herald four years ago I decided I'd get myself a torque wrench and was surprised to find you can get a reasonable one for about &163;20, I bought mine brand new off ebay. It's also easier to get the bolts tight as they are genearlly longer than a standard ratchett. I'd recommend getting one, well worth the money in my opinion.

Whatever you do avoid the dial type, these require a lot more care to use.

If the Acclaim uses an aluminium Honda engine, then do use a torque wrench when putting the head on. I was talking to a mechanic in a Rover garage once who explained that the alloy head torqques down at about 30ft lb, and any more than that can cause it to twist, and scrap the unit.

What is the "dial type"? Are those the circular jobbies? So many different types...

The dial type is where a pointer moves across a scale and you stop tightening when it reaches the required point on the scale. Trouble is they're not very accurate and you have to watch carefully as you tighten, they also fluctuate due to muscle power not being consistant. The type you should buy has a mechaism that 'gives' when you reach the right torque which you preset by means of a built in vernier scale before you start. These can be a little inaccurate but at least every bolt will at he same torque which is pretty essential for a cylinder head.

I think it is an essential item and not expensive. I wouldn't chance it without one. I bought 2 with different scales from Halfords about 15 years ago and they are still accurate.
Van

The dial type have a dial, ie a guage, and don't click. You tighten the bolt or whatever and the needle goes up as you increase the torque. They're not really for tightening stuff, they are for trying to turn things and seeing what torque they move at. For example testing brakes on industrial machines.
Van

Dan, this one on ebay looks the same as mine (can't be entirley certain) and I've been happy with it.

Item 8051874123, buy it now &163;15.99 + &194;&163;6.99 P&P (3 hours to go!)

You can also get them from Machine Mart and they also deliver by courier, but I don't know how much they sell theirs for, they have a got a website if you're interested.

Steve, are the ones in the machine mart book THE same as they look exactly like the failed "1969 or thereabouts"! It is not inconcievable the same tooling is still floating around somewhere... The failed wrench bears a sticker with the legend "made in Taiwan" which would be even more significant back then than it would be now. Incidentally some of the best tools I have seen lately are those imported from the States, another advantage is imperial sizes seem to still be common currency over there

not like this metric rubbish and nonsense we get over here

Dan, I've never looked at a Machine Mart wrench but I have bought other tools from there and I've always been happy with the quality, but then they don't get a lot of use from me, professionals could well have a totally different opinion. Looking on eBay I see the prices vary vastly for torque wrenches but if you're only doing the occassional cylinder head do you need an expensive one? I only ever use mine for critical components such as the cylinder head, brakes, wheel bearings (not Triumph before anyone asks), etc in fact in the time I've had my wrench I probaly only used it about half a dozen times.

Another place I've found good for cheaper tools is a local agricultural supplier, might be worth seeing if there's one near you.

I bought a 1/2" drive torque wrench from Machine Mart for less than &163;20 and it works fine. It is supplied in a plastic case with a couple of adaptors. You adjust the break point by means of a vernier build into the handlle and apply force until there is and audible and tactile click. The only slight problem is that the scale is in N.m and Kgf.m and not lbs.ft so you either need a manual that quotes both units ( the Spitfire 1500 one does) or you have to use the conversion chart provided.

Graham

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?
Posted By : Dan Owen, 08-Apr-2006, 9:15pm

Steve, are the ones in the machine mart book THE same as they look exactly like the failed "1969 or thereabouts"! It is not inconcievable the same tooling is still floating around somewhere... The failed wrench bears a sticker with the legend "made in Taiwan" which would be even more significant back then than it would be now. Incidentally some of the best tools I have seen lately are those imported from the States, another advantage is imperial sizes seem to still be common currency over there not like this metric rubbish and nonsense we get over here

Dan Owen

Hi Dan, and others,

The very first tool that I ever bought, way back in 1981, at the instigation of my late father, was a Norbar Torque Wrench from Halfords - Wimbledon, (long since closed): I recall it was very expensive for me at the time, as I was only earning 55 GBP/week after tax, having just started work, but it has been very reliable and I still have it. It is the type with the two small windows, one of which shows lb/ft. It is very important with any torque wrench to zero the settings after you have finished using it, or it will go out of true.

I have never regretted it and religiously go by all of the torque settings as shown in the Factory workshop manual. Especially important are those for the suspension settings, so that everything moves just as it should, but I am sure that whenever a torque setting is quoted by the factory, it is for very good reason!

Here in the States, the measurements are either in Standard, (basically the same as Imperial), or Metric - slowly creeping in on Japanese vehicles, of which there are VERY many on the West Coast at least...but then, they are so much better screwed together than the domestic stuff.

For that matter, we can still get 20W/50 engine oil almost everywhere, although GL-4 gear oil is harder to find than before...

If anyone comes here on holiday, then Craftsman tools from the Sears Department stores are very good, as are Snap-On tools, which are not available in stores, although you can pick-up Snap-On from Pawn Shops, (careful how you pronounce that here!). Also, remember to ask for wrenches, not spanners!

While I was working in a motor factors, I added to my tool collection after carefully inspecting my spanners etc for wear and tear, and I was surprised how worn many of them had become...go for Chrome-Vanadium every time.

I rather like Facom (French) Spanners, but would have to order those also.

Happy Spannering,

L&195;&169;on

Just been rereading my post and it strikes me a little clarification is in order. The failure of the old wrench was that it wouldn't "click". In the end we put the thing on its lowest setting, fastened the square drive in the vice and tried that. It did not click at all but did get the large and heavy bench up on two legs! Two men cannot even lift or drag this bench! That'll be knackered then... I did take it apart and couldn't find a damn thing wrong, nothing broken or siezed up so it now rests in our dustbin. Make is Kamasa who are still going but it won't be under warranty any more... Probably made for rather than by them as the socket set has given sterling service. Will certainly investigate Machine Mart, most of their stuff seems OK for our purposes at least.

Sorry if I've caused any confusion but I've just noticed my earlier reply stated "I managed with a torque wrench for over 25 years without any problems" - this was supposed read "I managed WITHOUT a torque wrench ...."

Oops

What a pity...

I was hopng for a tale of how some old boy rebult countless engines and never used a torque wrench ever.

Looks like I am going to be disappointed though...

Never mind

Dan, I've done decokes on cast iron heads (Herald, Cortina, and 2x Austin 1300) without a torque wrench and never had any problems, but I wouldn't recommend it for alloy heads.

Thanks Steve, that's interesting... as I can save my own pennies but the old man will probably get one himself! It's good news week...

Update... The old man has got one from Screwfix, cheap, seems OK for the price.

Section : General

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Followups :

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?

Torque Wrenches- Where to buy a good one and are they really necessary?