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Section : Engine
Posted By : Spencer Allen-Scholey, 16-May-2007,
09:22pm
Hi
I have discovered that the engine in my newly purchased Vitesse is in fact a T2000 engine (ML series) with Stromberg 150 CD"S" carbs. I may not have
torqued the cylinder head down enough since
a) I thought it was supposed to be torqued to 45lb/ft and
b) I am blowing water vapour out of the exhaust even though the head gasket was only changed 600 miles ago.
Can anyone confirm that the head needs to be torqued to 65lb/ft? I'm hoping this will cure my problem.
Much appreciated
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Posted By : William Murray, 16-May-2007,
10:02pm
Can confirm that specified torque figures for MkII 2000 head (i.e. ML) is 65 to 75lb/ft.
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Posted By : Paul Carter, 16-May-2007,
11:52pm
yes, if you have 7/16 inch head studs it should handle the higher torque setting ok as long as the washers below the nuts are the proper hardened
type........
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Posted By : Nigel Barton, 17-May-2007,
07:53am
Agree on torque settings as above. But bear in mind that if the head gasket has blown again as a result of not being tightened down enough,
just going to the higher torque now may not resolve it- you may well need to fit another new gasket then tighten down to the higher figure.
But are you sure the new gasket is leaking? Water vapour is normal on these engines (in fact most engines) until they are warmed through- is
this excessive or does it do it when hot as well? Might be worth a compression test to get a better idea of what is going on before you start
work.....
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Posted By : Spencer Allen-Scholey,
17-May-2007, 08:24am
Thank you Nigel for the advice. The exhaust has only started blowing recently and it is rather excessive I think. I may just try the higher
torque setting first before I undertake a head gasket replacement - it will be my first and I'm putting it off!
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Posted By : Colin Wake,
17-May-2007, 08:31am
Take the car out for a damn good thrash, but after you have re-torqued the head!
I think it is just normal condensation and will be long gone after 20 or 30 miles.
My spitfire has steam on startup, and it takes ages to stop, but the head gasket is definately intact.
Don't forget you will have to re-do the rocker clearances as well.
If all else fails, it will only take you and hour or so to swap the gasket as the head was only off 500 miles ago.
Cheers
Colin
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Posted By : Spencer
Allen-Scholey, 17-May-2007, 09:39am
Colin
Sound advice, this is the reason why I joined the Club! Thanks.
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Posted By : David
Rumens, 17-May-2007, 06:27pm
I agree with Colin's advice as these engines normally have an element of condensation when on tick over. Worst when cold.
Just keep an eye on the radiator water level. If this drops by a large amount then you may have a problem.
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Posted By : Spencer
Allen-Scholey, 18-May-2007, 06:40pm
Thanks for the advice, people. Unfortunately, on removing the rocker gear I inadvertantly cross-threaded not one but two of the
rocker pedestal studs! Can't beleive it! I was undoing them and all of a sudden they went tight and unscrewed from the head!
Anyway, I retorque'd the head to 65lb/ft and guess what - it has cured the problem- no more smoking exhaust! So now all I have
to do is replace the studs when they arrive (I don't really want to drive her around when the rocker gear is bodged in) and
I've ordered a new gasket as well just in case this is a temporary fix.
Now, who knows how to set up 150 CD"S" carbs??!! Since tinkering with the head torque the idle needs setting up again.
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Posted By : Steve
Bessant, 27-Jul-2007, 02:16pm
Congrats on fixing the water problem.
Have you actually damaged the studs? It's normal for them to unscrew from the head if the nuts get tight.
I would nip the unthreaded part of the stud in a vice and unwind the nut with a spanner. Clean it all up and reuse.
Or have I got entirely the wrong end of this stick?
cheers, Steve