Posted By : Kevin
Rochfort, 15-May-2007, 08:34am
If the engine turns over when you short out the solenoid, but you get no spark, then you have an electrical failure somewhere
near the ignition switch.
When you try and start the car with the ignition switch, first you apply 12V to the coil & ballast resistor, and then you
apply 12V to he "energise" contact on the solenoid. The solenoid operates to connect the battery to the starter motor (and also
via the auxilliary contact supplies 12V to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor) The car starts, and you release the
ignition key, and the solenoid de-energises, removing the 12V from the starter motor and the auxilliary contact to the coil, so
the car then runs with 6V at the coil.
As you cant get the solenoid to operate from the ignition switch, and when you manually operate the solenoid, you cannot get a
spark, the logical place to look is in the wiring that gets the 12V to the ingition switch in the first place.
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Posted By : Gavin
Renfrew, 15-May-2007, 08:40am
How do I test the wire. If I bought a multimeter where would I connect it to ascertain if power was flowing through it. (If
not would it mean replacing the wire from the ignition to coil/solenoid?
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Posted By : Kevin Rochfort, 15-May-2007, 09:03am
Gavin,
Get a wiring diagram (Haynes manual) and follow it logically.
As there are two symtoms, I'd look at the 12V going to the switch first, not the 12V going to the
coil&solenoid.
Just to prove things work, try "Hot Wiring" the car, just like a theif would do.
Find the wire on the coil that goes to the ballast resistor - the one on the opposite side of the coil to the one that
goes to the points.
Disconnect it from the coil.
Get a new bit of wire and conect it from the (now) empty terminal on the coil to the 12V terminal on the battery.
Get a screwdriver and short out the big terminals on the solenoid to get the engine turning on the starter motor
It should start - and run.
BUT dont leave it running like this too long, otherwise the coil will overheat, as it is probably a 6V coil + a ballast
resistor.
Do a search of the message board for other postings about hotwiring.
To stop the engine, disconnect the coil from the battery.
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Posted By : Steve Cureton, 15-May-2007, 09:16am
You don't neccasarily need a multimeter for testing continuity, just get 12V buld with two long wires attached. One
wire goes to earth (use the battery post to be certain as earth points can be faulty too) and the other wire goes
to the connection you need to test. If the bulb lights up then the connectivity is fine and you should suspect the
item it's attached to. If it doesn't light up then you just keep tracing back until you find the fault. Be aware
that you can get a reading from a wire indicating it's fine but if the connection to the item is dirty or corroded
you still might not get a working connection, therfore always try to put your test wires direct on the connector
terminal to check the power is flowing from the wire (I hope that makes sense). Finally always suspect faulty
earths as these are very common on Triumphs, a good earth return is vital to car electrics and I reckon 90% of
Triumph electrical faults are down to poor earths.
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Posted By : Dan Owen, 15-May-2007, 10:25am
I hope there aren't any potential Triumph thieves reading this thread!
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Posted By : Kevin Rochfort, 15-May-2007, 10:33am
Hotwiring has been discussed many times before - and most modern Yoof wouldn't be clever enough to do it -
and any serious thief would have many other ways tucked up his sleeve.
There are very few ways of securing an old car - the best is probably a coded solenoid in the fuel line,
connected to a good thatcham approved alarm system / tracker with its own battery.
But if they are really determined they will just lift the car onto a flatbed and drive away and then search
the car for the tracker in a "safe" location.