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Posted By : Phil Rogers, 30-Jun-2005, 07:45pm
During the recent warm weather, my mk lll will run rather hot, even up to the hot mark on the temperature guage. I fiited an auxillary fan which has made a
difference, but I am concerned about the oil pressure. On start up, pressure reads at 50+ and stays there for about 20 mins, but then starts to slowly fall
as the oil temp rises. After the 25 minute run home from work today, the temp guage was reading just over half (fine) but at a tick over of @ 900 rpm the
oil pressure light was flickering and the pressure guage was showing 5 (yes, 5!) psi. Oil currently being used is Millers Classic 20/50, but symptoms were
the same with Penrite 27/75. Could this be
A) Knackered oil pump
B) oil getting too hot and losing viscosity
C) combination of the above
D) something else completely
Despite all this, car runs superbly, mixture seems OK, no other issues.
Ladies and gents, over to you for your considered thoughts.
Phil
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Posted By : Nigel Gibbins, 30-Jun-2005,
11:24pm
Big question here... can you hear the crank when you start it up?
Low oil pressure (5psi) is a sign of either...
Not enough oil in the sump...
Worn bearings...
It could be the pump, but the bearings are usually the first to go - they are the most vulnerable to oil starvation. If you need to change the barings,
you can check the pump at the same time. Or vice-vesra.
I would guess that it's the bearings... this means it's time for a rebuild.
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Posted By : Phil Rogers, 01-Jul-2005,
04:20pm
Nigel
No sound of bearings on startup. I get a slight rattle for 1 or 2 seconds until the oil reaches the tappets then it's as quiet as you like. As I
said, it's running well with no rumbles or any of the other usual tell tale signs of bearing failure. As for not enough oil, i have checked and re
checked and it's up to the full mark when 7 and a bit pints have been put in. Thanks for your thoughts.
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Posted By : Chris Taylor,
01-Jul-2005, 07:20pm
Sorry to sound depressing, but that "slight rattle for one or two seconds" is NOT the tappets, whatever it sounds like. The tappets on the cam
are not pressure lubricated, but rely on drain from the head via pushrod tubes and spill from camshaft bearings. The rockers get hardly any
pressure at all as the metering arrangement on the rear camshaft bearing purposely reduces the oil pressure to the rockers. The oil generally
"oozes" from the rockers rather than pumping out in jets which the number of rockers and rocker/shaft clearances would permit should oil at
60psi get pumped into the rocker shaft.
I'm afraid what you can hear is the crankshaft bearings knocking until full oil pressure is available.
That is why your oil pressure falls as the oil warms up and viscosity reduces. The pump cannot pump enough oil to maintain pressure at low
speeds because of the rate at which it flows out of the worn crankshaft bearings. Any wear in the pump itself will exacerbate the problem.
That's the bad news! The good news is that you have not ruined the engine, and if driven with some consideration will go on for many miles.
Also, if you attend to it now, you can probably just replace the bearing shells without having to have the crankshaft reground. My Herald
engine (well thrashed) is now on its third or fourth set of standard size shells but the crank is virtually unworn and fit for many more
miles.
While bearing shells can be changed with the engine in the car, it is a much easier job with it out. Unless you check the oil pump clearances
and find it all in spec, I'd replace the oil pump while you have the sump off. You could fit a 1500 pump which has a larger capacity and will
help to prolong the life of a slightly worn 1300 crank.
Although you can end up replacing a whole list of things "just in case" and "because it's easy once the sump is off/engine out) but you MUST
replace the crank thrust washers as a precaution. (That can also be done with the engine in the car). I'd also change the crank oil seals and
the timing chain and tensioner if the engine is out of the car. This would also be a good opportunity to change the clutch but that depends on
how long it's been in the car.
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Posted By : Phil Rogers,
01-Jul-2005, 08:23pm
Thanks very much Chris for a comprehensive diagnosis. I'm now going to the manuals to see how it can be done. I'm fortunate enough to have
an inspection pit, so I've got a bit of room to move. Any further advice would be welcome.
Phil