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Posted By : James Carruthers, 21-Sep-2004,
12:18pm
This is an odd one...
The relay clicks ok when I press the button on the steering wheel...
If I connect the two terminals at the relay the horn sounds...
But it doesnt work all together...
It could be that my relay is dead - but it clicks - so I don't see how...
James
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Posted By : Chris Wilson, 21-Sep-2004,
12:29pm
Hmmm - I've just tried to post this message twice and it seems to have disappeared in to the ooloo!!!
Oh well, if it appears 3 times later on today, Craig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
James, I'm not sure if this is relevant but in order for the horns to work from the centre push I think you need to ensure you have a good earth
connection down at the bottom of your steering column?? Don't know if not having this earth connection would still permit your relay to click though??
I replaced my original steering knuckle thingy with a later type that didn't have the earth wire within it - I still have the "home-grown" wire I made
up, bridging that insulated joint, 3 years on!!
Regards
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Posted By : Craig Gingell,
21-Sep-2004, 02:20pm
Hi Chris,
I gave James a slap for posting messages under the wrong section. You must have caught us mid-slap as James was re-posting his message under the
correct section.
Apologies for any inconvenience.
Thanks and regards
Craig
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Posted By : Mark Astley,
21-Sep-2004, 03:01pm
Hi James,
If the relay clicks when you hit the horn push that says that the earthing is good down the column and the switching circuit to the relay is
good.
If you disconnect the main horn feeds into and out of the relay and the horns then sound then it is probably an internal fault with the relay
unit contactors that switch the 12V through to the horns.
If you have a multimeter then you can connect it on Ohms across the switched terminals (with the horn supply wiring disconnected) and it will
show
infinite resistance. When the push is pushed it should zero to a few ohms if the contactor is working properly. You may have a burnt out or
high resistance contactor that drops so much of the 12V that there isn't enough left to work the horns.
If you don't have a multimeter then a 12V bulb in a holder with wires with crocodile clips attached is a good way of checking for 12V. Attach
one clip to battery -ve and the other can be used to look for 12V. As you know the horn feed to the relay is good, attach the lamp to the
output terminal and operate the push. Bright light = relay OK. Dim light or no light indicates high resistance or open circuit relay.
Have fun
mark
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Posted By : James Carruthers,
21-Sep-2004, 03:15pm
Cheers Mark,
Somehow I just got my horns to work - I think it may have been a dodgily seated fuse... The horn was fed off the fuse - but the relay
wasnt... I really do think I might convert to modern blade fuses at some point...
James