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Posted By : Steve Abbott, 10-Jun-2007, 12:45pm
Hi All,
I will be replacing the rear wing and outer part of arch on my MkIV Spit soon. I have the panels and some experience of MIG welding (mostly on Mini's and
mostly patching) One of my main areas of concern is the outer wing forms the rear of the sill. Whilst I am fairly confident of fitting the new panels, I am
a bit worried about removing the old ones, (outer wing anyway.)
Any tips or ideas about this? Is there a good book specifically for the Spit I could buy first. I have the Herald, Spit, GT6 and Vitesse restoration book,
but this only covers the rear wing repair panels.
Any help much appreciated.
Regards, Steve.
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Posted By : Mark Hammond, 10-Jun-2007,
04:18pm
Easiest way is to brace door gaps, to ensure that the gaps are not lost when removing the old panel(s) and then cut the old panel off with a sharp
bolster chisel using the new panel as a guide for where the edges are as close to the seams as you can get without cutting into metalwork that is to
remain. Don't forget to wear strong gloves as the metalwork can be razor sharp AND goggles and you may need ear defenders too! Once the bulk of the
wing is off you can grind the seams back with an angle grinder to expose the spotwelds. I always take my time to drill through these carefully so that
you go through enough metal to separate the old panel from the flange. Then grind the edges back and dress the edges flat with a dolly and planishing
hammer. Clamp the new wing into place using panel grips and drill holes in the flanges roughly where you drilled out the welds on the old panel and
then plug weld the holes either with MIG or with gas. MIG is better I guess from a distortion point of view. It's a matter of personal preference
whether you use seam sealer before or after welding, I prefer to seal the new panel after welding. I guess the tricky bit on the Spitfire/GT6 is where
the rear wing joins the sill, but it can be done. Don't forget to remove the fuel tank first and any wiring, fuel/brake pipes in the vacinity first as
brake fluid is highly inflammable, together with any trim and sound deadening material. Have fun!
Mark
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Posted By : Steve Abbott, 10-Jun-2007,
05:10pm
Thanks Mark, must admit, it hadn't occurred to me to brace the door gap. As the majority of the sill is remaining in place and I am only doing one
side, perhaps I can get away with using a length of 2"X2" timber. The other side was done by the PO and the new panels were supplied with the car,
on purchase. Also got new front wings and outer arches but I am more cofident about replacing those.
Good tip on the ear defenders as well, only just got a pair of those, it is amazing how long the temporary deafness lasts when you have been using
a grinder for a while!
Seriously, everybody, long term effects on your hearing can creep up on you.
Thanks again, looking forward to getting started on this job (not!)
Steve.
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Posted By : Mark Hammond, 10-Jun-2007,
05:32pm
However you do it or by whatever method, it's crucial to brace the door gap as you need to be sure that the gaps are parallel all the way
round, ie at the top as well as the bottom of the door. I guess the objective is to make the job look like the wing has never needed
replacement in the first place!