Home
> Spitfire > Rear Axle > Siezed drum brakes -
Help
Anything and everything Spitfire.
Section : Rear Axle
Rear axle, brakes, wheels and tyres.
Posted By : David Thornber, 28-Jan-2006,
02:28pm
Suddenly had a burst of inspiration to get my long abandoned spit 1500 back on the road, it's going to need floor and sills on drivers side, but that's
another story.
After 5 years sat in my dads garage, the back brakes have seized solid. Have tried hitting the drum with a large persuading stick (hammer) but to no
avail.
Has anyone got any tips as to how to free the thing up, not bothered if brake components get damaged in the process, just need to be able to move the thing
for now.
Cheers,
Dave.
-
Posted By : John Davies, 28-Jan-2006,
02:50pm
The shoes will have rusted to the drum - large area of adhesion means they are on tight!
You need to provide some slack for the shoes to move back from the drum.
Make sure that the brake adjuster is wound right back - try not to round the very small square end as you can't buy them, I think. Penetrating oil, as
long as you clean it all after.
Then attack the brake slave cylinder. Detatch the hand braake, of course. The slave is designed to moves slightly fore and aft, so if you intend to
replace it then a careful attack with hammer and cold chisel to shock it in either direction may help. You can loosen the brake adjuster inside the
drum by removing the two small bolts that come through the back plate, but that would be a last resort.
All the time, in between, shock the drum all round with a nylon-faced hammer. Violence with a steel hammer could crack the drum. It can be a long
process! Eventually the drum will part from the shoes and it will begin tocreep off, but the rough shoe/drum surfaces after all that rust will still
grip. Take your time!
All this may be easier, if you take the whole of that axle off the car and work on the bench.
Best of luck!
JOhn
-
Posted By : David Thornber,
28-Jan-2006, 04:06pm
Cheers John,
Sorted that one, your points where invaluable.
Sprayed penetrating oil into the drum and let it soak for half an hour, then wound the adjuster off. Hey presto! It freed off.
Thanks again,
Dave.
-
Posted By : John Davies,
28-Jan-2006, 04:42pm
No probs, Dave, I think you fixed that one yourself.
Inspect the inside of the drums carefully. Severe rust damage - pitting - will ruin a new set of shoes.
You could fit the old ones and run it for a few miles, but the brake material is ruined and the braking will be dangerous - no rear wheel
braking risks a spin. It won't pass the MoT that you must need by now. If the drums are pitted, they can be skimmed, but check the minimum
thickness - I think it's measured as Internal Diameter. An ID is difficult to measure with common tools, so ask the machinist to check.
John
-
Posted By : David Thornber,
28-Jan-2006, 05:53pm
Drums/shoes are shot - looks like they've been run on metal at sometime(badly grooved drums), intend checking/replacing all brake
components when time comes to consider getting it back on the road.
Lots of welding to be done yet!