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fit??
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Section : Gearbox
Clutch, gearbox, overdrive, propeller shaft.
Posted By : Ian Preece, 27-Mar-2007, 07:47pm
Hi,
I'm about to do an overdrive conversion on my 1980 Spitfire 1500. I have a recon gearbox and overdrive ready, together with a new prop and all the other
bits.
My clutch seems to bite a bit high and I am going to change this at the same time.
My questions are:
Are all diferent makes of clutch the same?
Which are considered the best?
Which type / make do members usually fit.
My car is a pretty standard road car, I don't race it off road but drive it 'enthusiastically' on road!
Any advice would be appreciated.
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Posted By : John Davies, 27-Mar-2007,
08:02pm
Ian,
Your clutch "bites a bit high"?
That is nothing to do with the make or even state of the clutch driven plate.
It's all to do with the state of the pedal as a lever, the state of your hydraulics and particularly the clutch lever arm that is operated by the slave
cylinder.
As you are planning to take this all down, you will have the best opportunity to inspect and diagnose any problems.
Look especially at the pivot pin for that clutch lever arm.
IMHO, as long as you buy from a reputable dealer, the manufacturer isn't an issue.
John
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Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis,
27-Mar-2007, 08:52pm
Ive not used one but would suggest a "new "non recon clutch from eg. canley classics £47 or similar, or a recon AP /Borg & Beck
who use new parts,,, Many a reconditioned clutch has material milled or ground from the face plate to refinish it this reduces its thickness and
will change the relationship of the diaphragm fingers unless a ring is inserted to compensate( unlikley) the reduction in pressure plate thickness
alters the clamp and release load hysterisis of the diarphram which will normally result in higher pedal load and less clampload the thinner plate
will also be less heat tolerant, especially if its been done more than once in its life.and can fracture in poor cases .
being nicely painted and having a new looking face is the last thing you need its the geometry of what you cant see that messes things up on
recons,, and ive spent years comparing reconditioned clutches from 6.5 to 22ins and they are often miles fom the OE spec
be careful many people have probably had good life on a recon get new if you can ...peter
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Posted By : Chris Taylor,
27-Mar-2007, 09:19pm
Problems with pivots, thrust washers, and hydraulics also have an influence, but wear of the clutch driven plate WILL cause the clutch bite point
to get higher and higher! As the driven plate gets thinner, the cover plate and outer fingers of the diaphragm spring sit closer to the flywheel
and therefore the INNER fingers of the spring sit further back, towards the gearbox, when the clutch is engaged. A clutch biting point that gets
higher and higher is an indication of a worn clutch that will soon start to slip, although, as you say, other components can also contribute to
this effect.
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Posted By : Andy Cook, 28-Mar-2007,
00:32am
I'd go for a new genuine Borg and Beck or Laycock Clutch (these are the manufacturers that Triumph used), steer clear of any recon clutches or those
from motor factors such as QH, Motorcraft etc and make sure you get a complete clutch ie replace the Friction plate, Cover and thrust Bearing.
I've had a Borg and Beck clutch fitted to my GT6 for the last 15 years and have coverd >60K miles of "spirited" driving with absolutely no problems.
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Posted By : Chris Taylor,
29-Mar-2007, 04:12pm
While I would fully agree with comments about reconditioned clutches, and I would be careful about certain dubious pattern parts, I would actually
have no reservations about using Quinton Hazell parts. Any QH clutch for a Spitfire is likely to be NOS nowadays, and in their "heyday" QH stuff
was just as good as OE stuff, or often WAS OE stuff!
When Ford (=Motorcraft) produced stuff for other makes, their quality was also pretty good. Don't know if there ever was a Motorcraft clutch for
Spitfire, but again it is likely to be NOS and therefore likely to be pretty good.
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Posted By : Andy Cook,
29-Mar-2007, 04:40pm
I've not any direct experience of QH clutches, but know from experience that QH rotoflex couplings are inferior in quality to the original
metalastic ones (<10K miles on a QH rotoflex vs >30K from a metalstic version) so this has certainly influenced my perception of their
brand....