Posted By : Chris Taylor,
16-Apr-2007, 08:01am
The door appears fine; the problem seems to be the rear edge of the bonnet, and to my mind, does not indicate any structural problems.
As to the conversion, it all depends on how well it has been done. Interesting that whoever has done it has gone to the trouble of fitting
a 1200 grille in place of the 12/50. If a genuine Herald convertible rear body has been used, the only thing to check is that the
anti-burst catches have been fitted to rear of the doors and B posts, and that the hood catch fitments to the screenrail look "proper".
Again, unless a convertible bulkhead has been used, make sure the screenrail to hood sealing arrangements looks snug, not bodges or bunged
with goo or sealant.
If the existing bodyshell has been converted, you need to check the welding of the rear tonneau panel (ahead of the bootlid) and the inner
hood recess surround, and the "inner B post" (to which the hood recess attaches at the front) is both there and properly welded to the
floor and wing tops. Some conversions involve taking the hole upper section of the rear bodyshell off a convertible, in which case checking
the alignment and quality of welding at the joint along the seam between upper and lower rear wings is OK. Indeed, with the exception of
the tops of the screenrail, all the saloon-convertible issues relate to the rear body tub.
That said, convertibles are prone to just the same rot issues (and limited mechanical maladies) as saloons.
As regards insurance, there should be no problems provided you are honest with the insurer. Take advice from the previous owner(s) as to
who they used and how they got it approved. Also worth checking the V5 has been modified to reflect the new body style, but that the
commission number has NOT been altered. As a 12/50, it should have a GD prefix and a DLRS suffix to the number.
As to value, it's really a matter of what it's worth to you. Perhaps the club officials could advise on the value of such conversions as
they agree values for the FJ insurance policies. Although prices are not always logical, if the job has been done properly, there will be
no practical or even visual differences between this and a genuine factory convertible. As an example, a friend's genuine 13/60
convertible, during a major restoration, has incorporated a converted saloon rear body tub (not sure about the bulkhead, but that's been
changed, and it's now on it's 3rd bonnet (one got bent in a collision) as well as recon engine, gearbox and diff over the years, but it has
retained its "genuine" convertible identity throughout and to the purist, is worth more. Logic?
If the rest of the car is as good as the photos suggest (big if of course!) then &163;1500 is good value!
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Posted By : Ian Smythe,
16-Apr-2007, 12:16pm
Thanks Chris
I shall print of that list and take it with me your help much appreciated
Thanks
Ian
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Posted By : Aaron Tucker,
16-Apr-2007, 02:03pm
Hi Ian
I have a 1200 genuine convertible in a similar colour it too has a 12/50 engine but this was done many years ago, they are great
fun to drive.
As to the door gap I would agree with Chris, I think the driverside of the bonnet/wing looks bent inwards concaved, but it could be
just that bonnet is mis-aligned?
I have some pics of the anti burst catches which will help you find what you are looking for wil post later.
I have seen quite a few saloon to convertible conversions, some bad some good, just check that they have done the rear deck
properly and the hood moves properly etc.. rust in all the normal triumph places, esp the hood well near the b-piller area as the
water can collect here
Good Luck looking at the car
Aaron
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Posted By : Ian Smythe,
16-Apr-2007, 02:50pm
Aaron one thing i did forget to mention and this is probably the reason for the grill and the poor panel alignment the bonnet
is fibreglass i know the one on my race car is a very poor fit
