Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Stephen Abbott, 13-May-2006, 09:26pm
Danial, start looking for a new diff. It sounds like the one on the car is bu****ed. Congrats on your MOT by the way, mine passed first time around and
I came home on a ramp truck the following week, this was my fault though as I didn't tighten the caliper mount bracket up properly. 
-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Colin Lindsay, 14-May-2006, 11:30am
Make sure it's not something simple like a bolt from the axle mountings catching everytime it rotates - I've seen this before, where the nut drops off and every time the axle rotates the bolt head sticks against the diff housing.
Colin-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 14-May-2006, 01:26pm
going to have a look, got manual out, hope your right colin, sounds posible due to probmen im haveing, but i broke my finger when i jacked it up, ops.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Vin Poonwassie, 14-May-2006, 03:35pm
I had the same sort of symptoms a couple of years ago, 3rd real outing for the car. It's got a 2.5 so i was aware of the stories of 'you know the diffs gonna blow up'. Driving to work (already boasted to my coleagues that the spit is coming in!). Halfway there got a graunchy noise, diff gone! wouldn't run without severe binding/grinding. Called tow truck and got it home. Thought it was funny that the diff had gone and it still drove? Changed the diff for a noisey spare, started to drive to work again in it two days later, got to the end of the road and it didn't feel right. left it at home and checked it out at the weekend.
turned out to be the front left hub, one of the four bolts that hold the round plate that has the brake bracket had worked loose and was knocking it's head against the head of a fixed bolt (as opposed to the one that had come loose and goes around with the hub).
so fixed that and put the original diff back in....
so jumping to popular myth is not good - check everything out ones self even if it sounds unlikely....
ps. broken finger - gotta hurt.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 14-May-2006, 03:59pm
fron left hub? its back wheels that are locked up, no nothing about cars so can you explain simpler, seams to be both back wheels, are you saying it was something in one side brake drum?
read it several times but not sure of where you mean.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 14-May-2006, 05:12pm
right, on axel stands at back, can spin wheels frealy intervidualy and it spind oposit wheel in oposit direction, normal i think, bu when i try to spin both wheels in the same direction drive shaft turns a litle and they lock up, when i hop in and try to drive wheels round in first they spin half turn if that, and same in revers, locking up noise is heard. so what should i check first. explaine simply as new to this sort of thing-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Steve Cureton, 14-May-2006, 06:10pm
If both wheels turn indepentatntly without locking then I think the problem is to do with the propshaft or iput side of the diff. Get one wheel off the gound, put the car in neutral and get underneath the car, now tun the propshaft by hand and see if it still locks up. If it does (which I suspect it will) check the bolts at either end of the propshaft to see if any have come loose or if sometihng else is causing an obstruction. If that doesn't reveal anything then remove the propshaft and try turning the diff input and the gearbox output by hand. Is it still locking and if so is it the gearbox or diff that's locking? By this stage you will know for sure where the probem lies and this is easier than remving the diff, and you'll have to undo the propshaft if the diiff has gone anyway.
P.S. before removing the propshaft make sure you mark the joints so you can put them back in the same position to mantain balance. Good luck and let us know how you get on.
-
-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Vin Poonwassie, 14-May-2006, 08:00pm
Sorry Daniel for being confusing, I had the same sort of symptoms, not the same fault. Like Colin said, loose bolt could be your problem, or could be something completely different, as implied by my response, don't take anything for granted. Like Steve says an easy way to tell if it's the diff end or prop/gb is to unbolt the prop at the diff end.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 14-May-2006, 10:10pm
both wheels off ground, been underneath, is propshaft driveshaft? if so cant turn by hand, ill go out again tomorow and try again, hard one handed lol, and try again plus take the 4 bolts of driveshaft and see if dit moves and or diff bit moves, corect? when i turn dif bit will/should it turn wheels if working.
also got partner moaning coz of finger.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Colin Wake, 15-May-2006, 08:38am
By the sounds of it, you have either a tooth off and jammed in the diff, a loose bolt in the prop, or a problem in the gearbox.
Disconnect the prop at either end asap to ascertain where the problem is.
Once prop is disconnected, rotate the input of the diff and see if it turns.
4.11 diffs are plentiful 2ndhand so you won't have troubles getting another one.
Same with herald gearboxes.
Colin-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 15-May-2006, 03:11pm
removed driveshaft, it spins freely, so not gearbox or driveshaft. conections to wheels off diff look ok. so must be something in diff i guess-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Colin Wake, 15-May-2006, 04:05pm
Danial
If you are stuck for a diff, give me a shout.
I'm Nr Colchester, but Travel to Bury St Edmunds regularly......
Cheers
Colin
TSSC Suffolk AO.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 15-May-2006, 05:37pm
ill take it out and open it up and look inside for anything obious, thats 50miles from me, im near wisbeach, how much?-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Colin Wake, 15-May-2006, 06:14pm
I'v esent you a PM.
Cheers
Colin-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 16-May-2006, 09:19pm
got old diff out, took out the 8 bolts and the top 4 then realized dident need to, but doesent come apart, have i got to undo nut on propshaft conection?-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Chris Taylor, 17-May-2006, 07:29am
NO, the front nut on the propshaft input flange can stay put. You need to undo the ring of bolts around the centre of the casing, joining front half to back, and also remove both output shafts. This is done by unscrewing the 4 allen bolts (accessible through the flange bolt holes) and pulling out (may take a bit of persuasion if they've been there for many years).
By the way, there should be 6 studs in the top of the casing, not 4. 4 bolt holes suggests a late Spitfire rear casing for cars using a swing spring.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 17-May-2006, 12:22pm
had six holding leaf spring, 4 i dident need to undo was oes on same end as imput shaft that hold chassy bracket piece on.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 17-May-2006, 03:22pm
got it open, doesent look good, here is a pic. been oferd a mk11 vitesse diff will that do, sounds tempting especialy if i decide to put larger engine in next year, its a 1300 engine in at moment without overdrive.??
Good Day Then Disaster-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Chris Taylor, 17-May-2006, 08:14pm
I'd stick with a 4.11 diff. A Vitesse diff will mean changing driveshaft U/J flanges, and maybe propshaft one as well. Also, speedo will underread as well. There will be a performance loss, although how big will depend on which engine you use.
If you go for a 1500 engine then it might be worth fitting the Vitesse diff, (it will also be stronger to help cope with greater torque of 1500 engine) but not really worth doing with a 1300, even if tuned for a higher output.
Of course, if you go for 1 six cylinder engine, then you'll probably need the Vitesse diff, but there will be a whole lot of other stuff to change as well. As I've said on this board before, although it is your car to do with as you see fit, there is so much involved in converting to 6 cylinder power that you really are better off buying a Vitesse. The work's all already been done, and properly, and there's no argument with DVLA over identity, or with MOT tester, or with Insurance Company.
If getting a replacement 4.11 diff (ex Herald or Mk1-3 Spit) it's worth trying to get a 13/60 or Mk3 Spit diff as they are stronger than 1200 (and earlier Spit) diffs. Serial number should start GE for a 13/60 diff I think.-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 17-May-2006, 10:38pm
sorted then, ill agree with that statement, GE one it is for my 1300 engine, hopefuly colin has one. thankyou-
Good Day Then Disaster
Posted By : Danial Phoenix, 20-May-2006, 10:25pm
thank you very much colin for the diff,, got it in fitted,
oh fun of balancing it on jack.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-