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Anything and everything Herald. Talk about anything from the first 948s to the last 13/60s.
Section : Gearbox
Clutch, gearbox, overdrive, propeller shaft.
Posted By : Dawn Wellman, 13-Oct-2006, 07:04pm
Thank you to all who sent me offers of advice. We are sure tha the problem has been sorted out. Thanks
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Posted By : Steve Cureton, 13-Oct-2006,
07:19pm
I'm no gearbox expert but I suspect the remote mechansm, the bit that connect the gear lever to the gearbox, could be at fault, this probably wasn't
included in the recon. Also check the nylon bushes at the bottom of the gearlever, these don't cost very much but if worn will reduce the 'reach' of
the lever.
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Posted By : Jason Chinn, 13-Oct-2006,
07:35pm
Is this a standard gearbox - ie not a Spit/Dolly overdrive box? I agree that the remote linkage could be at fault but for it to "jump" out whilst
cruising is very strange indeed. It's not uncommon to sway a worn lower speed synchro for a less worn fourth gear synchro ring when building a box
on a budget but that wouldn't explain your troubles - once in gear (fully engaged in gear) it should not "jump" out - can you find a pattern to
this jumping out of gear - is it under load, on the over run, flat steady speed cruise or what?
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Posted By : John Davies,
13-Oct-2006, 08:56pm
Dawn,
The jumping out of gear is a pain, but the lack of directional stability is downright scary.
There was a very recent thread here about a Spitfire with a similar problem.
Turned out to be a cracked heel plate, where the radius arm was anchored to the body shell.
Slight difference in a Herald, but same suspension setup.
Suggest you inspect the rear outriggers and the radius arm brackets thereon.
Are the O/rs securely fixed to the chassis and not so rusted that the bracket(s) move about?
Good luck!
John
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Posted By : Vin Poonwassie,
13-Oct-2006, 09:25pm
Hi, not really meaning to be the harbinger of doom....but all those symptoms point to a dodgy gearbox. The mechanism that keeps the gear in
gear is a ball bearing that presses against a shaft with a notcj in it, this is all inside the gearbox. if this is missing or the
associated parts are very worn then this will happen. The bit where it won't go back into fourth if you don't catch it in time sounds like
a worn synchro on fourth gear (like a clutch for fourth gear but made of brass and covered in oil). All in all the replacement gearbox
doesn't sound so good.
hope I'm wrong and it is just a gear lever adjustment........ but......
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Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis,
13-Oct-2006, 09:39pm
it makes sense that the jump out is due to wear or other problems in the remote , especially as youve changed
the box and its till evident,, can you feel the in gear detent when you engage 4th parked with engine off,
if the pivot bolt on the bottom of the gear lever is the wrong way round you will foul the casing and restict travel.
into 4th. and give the stick a rotating motion. also make sure the screwed dowl bolt on the forward tower selector is tight .
thats apart from the previous comments about the bushes in the remote linkage small losses make big effects in this area.
stability if all is soundly bolted up and chassis is sound do a simple tape measure check across the rear tyres with two straight peices of
wood , parallel and as high up the tyre as you can and check the dimension across the car for a rough guide as to the toe in /zero setting
of the drive wheels. You can use a long peice of straight timber to check if square to body by putting against tyre and measure gap to the
sill this is only as good as your wood and tape its cheap and gives a good indication Peter
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Posted By : Peter & Mick
Lewis, 13-Oct-2006, 09:53pm
just a thought on the gearbox rebuild,, my professional rebuild was worst than the oil less version in the car when we bought it
so back to d i y synchro rings only work (or not) when engaging gears which are running at different revolutions and once In Gear have
no effect on jumping out, this generally occurs due to worn sliding sleeve teeth, lack of detent spring tension,worn
dog teeth on the gearwheel,or excessive endfloat due to worn or incorrect thrust washers etc. best of luck stick to the cheap options
first Peter
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Posted By : Chris
Taylor, 14-Oct-2006, 00:33am
I think folks have tried to diagnose a problem that does not exist. I do not see any reference in the original post to directional
instability. The feel of the gearlever moving backwards and to the left when engaging 4th gear is quite normal on a Herald box.
They all do that!
It would be interesting to know whether the remote control linkage was changed when the new box was fitted. If not, then look at
that first. Bushes first, state of selector forks second. If they are all ok, then I'd try engaging 4th gear with the gearbox top
off and seeing how much resistance there is to move the selector hub back into neutral. There should be similar resistance to
engage and disengage 4th gear, and this should be similar to the force to engage and disengage 3 and 2nd gears as well.
My money is on worn bushes in the remote control linkage. Fortunately wuick, simple and relatively cheap to replace, and without
taking the gerbox out. If it's not that, I'd be talking to whoever rebuilt the gearbox.
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Posted By : John
Davies, 14-Oct-2006, 09:27am
Doh!
But, "changing from 3rd to 4th it does not go in a straight line but goes slightly to the left " dcould imply a swerve on power
off.
Only trying to help!
John
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Posted By : Dan
Owen, 14-Oct-2006, 08:04pm
Going on my own experience, what Chris says is quite valid-this slight movement to the left is absolutely normal.
Do try changing the bushes but if it doesn't work then it's time to raise Cain with whoever sold you the "recon" (painted?)
'box.
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Posted By : Steve
Cureton, 14-Oct-2006, 09:28pm
If changing the bushes etc makes no difference I'd ak for my money back and if it's a standard four speed box I
wouldn't bother having it reconditioned again, they're always cropping up on ebay very cheeply. Failing that try any of
the Triumph traders for a second-hand one. I have one in my garage given to me by a friend if you're interested, I'm
told by the guy who gave it to me that it's in good working order.
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Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis, 17-Oct-2006, 08:52am
at the risk of being a bore look under the remote at the bolt that goes through the bottom of the stick most have
this 1, to long 2, wrong way round this causes a foul with the remote case and gives a curved selection path into
4th mine right and its a straght path
stick to the simple rules first, off with the cover and use torch and mirror pete