Anything and everything Herald. Talk about anything from the first 948s to the last 13/60s.

Engine, cooling system, fuel system, exhaust system.

Iv been for a good runs about since puting the engine in, and then I serviced the 150 carbs, had it tuned, then fitted an airbox with new filters, iv taken the car out for two runs since, both fantastic fun, fast responsive and smoth, have to use choke sice its been tuned (use to idle at 1500rpm) now sits at 800rpm roughly when engines run enogh not to need choke. all seams fine.

but... after driving the car for a while, if gets a bit lumpy fealing when excelerating after gear change or from doing steady speed to flooring it. feals like lack of fuel, im guessing its the bits that go up and down in the carbs sticking when the carbs get hot? as they where hard to get to fall smothly when lifted but apear ok now just bit slow. engine tempeture sits at nice 80, when warmed up and doesent vary at all.

so what you think? carbs bits sticking, sticking fuel pump, or something else?

ir ruins the drive home after going ou when it feals like im going over speed bumps, or someones taping the brake type of feling.

Sounds like a misfire... If you haven't done it already then I suggest changing the service items... HT leads, plugs, points, rotor, dizz cap.

I doubt it's sticking carb pistons - had that once and it's much worse than a misfire type... would either run real rich or real lean... the plugs will tell you.

it has been a little tempremental starting despite the starter sounding fantastic. I did change the ignition side on the 1300 engine,but havent touched it sine 2L went in. how much better is electric ignition? is it worth doing that while there? or just plugs,leads,cap,arm and condensor?

While I usually maintain that replacing ignition components is never a wasted effort, I'd also check a few things on the carbs:
Are the dashpots full of oil?
Are the diaphragms split, distorted, fitted the correct way round?
Are the needles fitted tightly in the air valve?
Are the jets correctly centred?

If there is ANY restriction to the smooth rise and COMPLETE fall of the air valves, that must be sorted out. The only resistance (and smooth resistance at that) should be the effect of the dampers in the dashpots when lifting the air valve. They should then fall smoothly right onto the jet bar, landing with a click. Both air valves should fall in about the same time.

If the diaphragms are not fitted correctly (there are 2 tags, one where it is fitted to the air valve, the other locates in a recess in the carb body) then the top will be not quite square to the jet axis when screwed down.

Also just worth checking the distributor vacuum advance is working.

bought new servicing kits so all new bitrs in diafram rubbers ect.. noticed tags on body and diaphrams but dident know they where on the tops so will check as i have to leave the new screws undone slightly to alow them to fall nicely.

I think you will find the tag on the diaphragm protrudes downwards and fits into a cut-out in the carb body. I don't think there is a recess in the carb top. However, if the diaphragm does not fit correctly into its cut-out, the top cannot fit down correctly on top. Similar arrangement applies to the airvalve joint at the inner edge of the diaphrgam, but this is less critical. It does however have to go the right way round to ensure that the air valve is located the right way round in the carb, with the entry holes in its lower face nearest the inlet manifold. This should place the outer tag in the right place in the body.

Officially I don't think there is a right way round for the carb top, but they I seem to recall they are fitted so that you can read the writing on them when facing towards the inlet manifold. There is also a "lump" under the dashpot, but I can't recall which way that faces. I suggest you have a look at some Vitesse or 2000 saloon engine bay photos to see if this can be made out. The carb tops ought to have their best "fit" when aligned as when they left the factory. But, if they fit better (in terms of how easily the air valves fall) then keep them in that position. It is also possible that the tops have been swapped between the carbs, so you could try swapping them over.

Have you fitted new needles? If so, check that the grub screws holding the needles are done up tight and the needles aren't able to move round. I had considerable trouble with a Stromberg with the screw allowing the needle to move slightly, and this affected the way the air valves dropped. Make sure you have a good fit screwdriver, and give it a good tweak. The screw goes into steel rather than alloy, so you can do it up tight; just don't distort the screwdriver slot or you'll never get it undone again!

got electronic ignition and the best HT leads the club had, fitted them and just went for a 60 mile run, and it was a lovely drive, bit cold weather, but soo much smother and enjoyable. 3 of the 6 old leads fell apart tacking them off!

sounds like fuel starvation. I had the same problem with a 1360, turned out to be debris in the fule line blocking the float valve at the carb. I'd remove and strip the carb....

carbs have been seviced and have new valves in.

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