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Posted By : Gwyneth Catterall, 23-Apr-2006,
08:37pm
This is a dolomite engine but just a general tuning question. Any advice most gratefully received.
The car starts and runs fine but when pressed in any gear starts to backfire, this can be solved by changing up a gear.
In top it occurs about 50 mph but will get passed this with gentle throttle application.
It is not apparent when just reving the engine in neutral.
Thanks to help from the forum I was able to tune the carbs, the mix was weak but setting them correctly has only improved the situation.
Points and plugs are fine.
I did wonder if the vacume advance retard thingy was working can you test this by sucking on the pipe?? or am I really stupid!!
I hope that someone out there recognizes (hopefully) classic symptoms and can help me here.
Regards to all
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Posted By : Brendon Elton, 24-Apr-2006,
08:33am
You can test your vacum advance by sucking on the pipe and using your tounge to seal the vacum, if it does not hold the vacum then the rubber inside
the unit has perrished rendering the unit useless.
If you have a misfire I would suggest testing and or cleaning all the following
Points/Plugs/HT Leads/Ignition Timing/Coil/Rotor Arm/Distributor Cap
If your engine sounds rather clicky from the top end I would suggest getting the tappets adjusted.
Hope this helps
Brendon
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Posted By : Steve Cureton, 24-Apr-2006,
09:04am
If all the above are okay then your ignition timing is probably in need of adjustment.
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Posted By : Brendon Elton, 24-Apr-2006,
09:33am
I was just wondering, Has your vehicle been converted to unleaded?
Brendon
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Posted By : Gwyneth Catterall, 24-Apr-2006,
09:39am
Thanks to Brendan for that. When I suck on the vacum pipe should I see the rod and plate inside the distributer move to advance the spark? at the
moment this is not happening. I guess that if the rubber Diaphragm inside the vacum thingy is perished then I have to get a whole new unit.
Thanks again Brendan.
PS I had real problems with bad running some months ago, tried all the usual ignition suspects except the roter arm which looked good, no
improvement till I tried a new roter arm and ...bingo ..everything was fine.
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Posted By : Brendon Elton, 24-Apr-2006,
10:03am
As far as I am aware, vacum units are sealed and no moveable components are visible, try my test in the 2nd post, if it suck on the pipe and
use your tounge to seal the end and it holds vacum pressure, its working. if all vacum escapes and there is no suction on your tounge the unit
is faulty.
be sure that all pipes connected to the vacum unit are flawless. no cracks splits etc. it is known that Fuel can travel down these pipes and
errode the rubber diaphram inside the vacum unit, Caution, be sure not to inhale or swallow any fuel... could be dangerous to your health.
Rgdz
Brendon
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Posted By : Gwyneth Catterall,
24-Apr-2006, 01:32pm
Thanks Brendon I will suck it and see!! I had thought that one would be able to observe the little rod thing in the distributor move when
suction was applied? and that this rod then pulls the point plate round to advance it.
I have ingested a fair amount of petrol over the years, usually trying to syphon the stuff, I am still here but, as you can probably tell,
the brain is somewhat addled!!
Regards
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Posted By : Gwyneth Catterall,
24-Apr-2006, 06:05pm
Thanks all for the recent help with my missfiring triumph (dolly engine) All is now well after 'tuning' the carbs (too weak) thanks to
forumite help. Then setting the ignition timing then renewing the vacum pipe (again thanks to forumite help!!.
The vacum pipe was a bit of a puzzle... the little plastic tube was pushed so hard into the rubber 90 degree elbow that it was
restricting the air flow.
Thanks guys for the advice
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Posted By : Chris Taylor,
24-Apr-2006, 08:03pm
Gwyneth has solved her problem, but just for the record there are TWO tests you need to do with a vacuum advance unit:
suck on the pipe and see that there IS movement of the distributor base plate. If not, you are not getting any change in timing with vacuum
changes. WHile you cannot see the diaphragm, you CAN see the movement it achieves.
Second, suck and seal as you suggest. That will check if there is some form of leak in the system. The constant vacuum with engine running
will overcome a small leak, but not a big one, but neither is of any consequence of the base plate is seized or obstructed, or the vacuum
unot not actually connected!