Section : Engine

Engine troubles

Posted By : James Matthews, 09-Apr-2006, 07:00pm

• Engine troubles

  Posted By : Steve Cureton, 09-Apr-2006, 07:20pm

  Not sure what you mean by a strange stopping - do you mean the engine doesn't turn over continually on the starter? If so you need to check it's been refitted squarely as it is possible for it not sit flush then it can't engage with the flywheel properly. Also check the electrical connection is suitably tight and clean. Have you removed the engine to do the clutch change and if so have you replaced the earth lead?
  
  You say there appears to be no fuel on the spark plugs so have you checked there is fuel in the carb? Also try removing the fuel line from the carb and operate the fuel pump manually to see if it pumping fuel through.
  
  Have you idsconnected the HT leads and if so have you put them back in the correct firing order - I think it's 1 3 4 2 from memory but check in your manaual.

  • Engine troubles

    Posted By : James Matthews, 09-Apr-2006, 09:45pm

    Cheers guys,
    
    When removing the engine several other problems came to light so in order to rectify them I needed to replace the clutch pipe, speedo cable, engine mounts, steering rack gaitors and inlet/ exhaust manifold. However the manifold I replaced it with was not new so could be a problem there. Furthermore I recall having problems in the past with the starter motor graunching due to loose bolts. but obviously this time I checked they were suitably tight. Sorry for my incoherency before; what I meant was the engine not turning over continuosly. I did try removing the spark plug and testing the spark against the rocker cover and it was fine also I checked the points with a feeler gauge and that too seemed ok. Which leads me to believe it is fuel not ignition at fault. as I stated before when removing the spark plug there was no fuel on it, there was some slight carbon fouling but it had run before with those plugs (so i dont think thats the problem). Overall I can only asume that the fuel is being lost between the carburretor and the cylinders. As I have already tested the fuel pump by removing the pipe (connected to the carburettor) and manually pumping it, fuel came through with no trouble. Any ideas? Thanks for all the advice.
    
    Regards James.

• Engine troubles

  Posted By : Dan Owen, 09-Apr-2006, 07:24pm

  All you can do is check systematically. Check for fuel by cranking the engine and sniffing the exhaust-bit crude but it does work.
  Next check for a spark at the plugs. Pull one of the HT leads off the plug terminal and pull back the rubber to expose the terminal within. Hold this (use insulated pliers!) close to, but not touching, a good earth. Scrape a bit of paint off the head if you need to. While a friend cranks the engine over look for a spark here. If you have spark and fuel you may have connected the leads up in the wrong order- firing sequence is I think 1-3-4-2 but best to check your manual. It would be a big help to know exacly what has been off. I gather that you took the engine out with the gearbox and split them on the floor? To change a Herald clutch I would remove the 'box from inside though that is only my preference of course. You removed the engine, what exactly did you remove in the process of removing it? Did you do any other work eg new points? As much irrelevant detail as possible please especially if you can narrow it down to fuel or ignition (most likely). Do tell as it helps us to help you!
  
  Don't worry overmuch about being "green" as we all were once!

• Engine troubles

  Posted By : Steve Bullock, 09-Apr-2006, 09:07pm

  Are you getting fuel to your float chambers... my needles stick if my Spit isnt fired up regularly???

  • Engine troubles

    Posted By : Steve Cureton, 10-Apr-2006, 09:47am

    Did you use new gaskets when replacing the manifold and have you checked there are no obvious holes or cracks? Miind you, unless there are serious air leaks I would still expect the car to fire up even if it won't run properly. Apparently you can buy something called Eazy Start which you squirt in to the carb as it's being cranked over, if it then fires up you know the fault lies in the carb and you can start narrowing down the search.
    
    If your engine is cranking slowly or intermittently it could explain why the plugs are not getting wet as it takes some serious cranking to show on the plugs. It could also be the spark is burning off any fuel but something else is stopping the engine from firing, have you checked the firing order? Did you do anything else when it was stripped down such as re-setting the tappets or removing the timing chain and if so have you put it back together properly, did you move the distrubitor - unfortunately the list is endless and you need to retrace your steps for the work you've carried out. Have you got a compression tester? if so check all cylinders.
    
    Could also be it's just cranking over too slowly to fire so spend more time on the starter motor, make sure it's seated squarly with nothing trapped under the mating surface to prevent it sitting flush, make sure it's eartned properly - use a jump lead directly back to the battery terminal if neccassary, try another battery or jump leads.

    • Engine troubles

      Posted By : James Matthews, 10-Apr-2006, 04:44pm

      Thanks for that steve,
      
      luckily I ve narrowed it down to a problem in the distributor, hand cranked the engine so n0.1 cylinder was at t.d.c (top, dead center) on the compression stroke and athough the distributor body is in the right place the rotor arm is 1/2 way between the distributor terminal for cylinders 1 and 3 were it should be at 1. the firing order being (1342). Am not quite sure how this occured as have not touched the distribution assembly at all. Furthermore have tried retuning the car via the advance retard to b.t.d.c at 3and 3/4 inches. I think the rotor arm may be misalligned with the distributor body. If so does anyone know how to reallign it. Furthermore on closer inspection the sparking plugs were found to be badly worn(which probably didnt help) and so were promptly replaced. Also have replaced the rotor arm both with new units.
      
      regards James.

      • Engine troubles

        Posted By : Steve Cureton, 10-Apr-2006, 06:00pm

        James, not sure what you mean by "have tried retuning the car via the advance retard to b.t.d.c at 3and 3/4 inches." can you elaborate?
        
        I don't know how knowledgable you are on car engines so excuse me if you feel I'm treating you like a total novice, but are you sure it's on the compression stroke? (valves 1 & 2 should both be closed, ie the rockers are not pressing on the valve stem).
        
        It is possible you've knocked the distributor out of place when you've lifted the engine so all you need to do to put it back in place is slacken the pinch bolt at the bottom of the distributor and turn it. The other possibility is the rotor arm might have been damged and it's lost the 'key' that holds in the correct position on the shaft, check it doesn't turn freely on the shaft. Also check that the distributor shaft isn't turning as this would indicate a damaged shaft or drive dog.
        
        I presume you haven't touched the valve timing by undoing the timing chain etc?

        • Engine troubles

          Posted By : James Matthews, 10-Apr-2006, 09:30pm

          Not to worry Steve,
          
          I'am still quite "green", Luckily after some tweaking and replacing the sparking plugs. The engine is now running i am not sure exactly what the issue was, however it appears to be rectified now and the engine is running "sweeter" than it ever has done so it seems to solved. I really appreciate all the help and advice you ve put forward its been of great interest and help to me. Doubtless i will require more advice later on in my restoration project.
          
          All the best,
          James