Section : Engine

Failure to start

Posted By : Judith Partridge, 22-Jun-2003, 02:37pm

• failure to start

  Posted By : Colin Lindsay, 22-Jun-2003, 04:54pm

  Hi Judith.. this is obviously a big problem since you've posted it five times...!! It is caused by fuel evaporation in the heat and while a heatshield might help you need to check if your fuel line is too close to any heat source ie the manifold, and shield it from that, and make sure you have the best airflow possible under the bonnet. Make sure air can get to the components and cool them, if necessary open the bonnet for a few minutes to let air flow over the fuel components. Judicious use of the choke can enrich the flow but it is very easy to flood the engine so be careful!! Have you considered an electric fan to run on after the engine stops and aid air flow?

  • failure to start

    Posted By : Judith Partridge, 23-Jun-2003, 12:24pm

    Yea thanks for the reply. An old chap in yorkshire told us about the fuel line round the engine block. Is it possible to re-route it or do you think a change of pipe is a good idea?

    • failure to start

      Posted By : Colin Lindsay, 30-Jun-2003, 07:06pm

      I'd only replace the pipe if damaged or if it's not long enough to re-route; although rather than re-route it (to where? Front of the engine gets the most air flow) I'd concentrate on getting as much air around it as possible to cool it down. I've also heard of, but never saw, owners making an airway along the lines of the Spitfire filter box feed from the front grille to the carb using a piece of airway tubing secured at both ends which channels air straight to the carb to help cool it. Don't know how much of an improvement that would be when parked though.... this is why the electric fan seems the best idea.

      • failure to start

        Posted By : Nigel Gibbins, 30-Jun-2003, 10:58pm

        Hi Colin,
        
        The 'airway' you're talking about is a cheap 'performance mod' which is intended to direct cold air (from outside the engine bay) into the carbs. This gives more power, sometimes there's a collector box at the end too. It's not usually intended as a cooling system for the carbs. The problem is the radiant heat from the exhaust (which actually glows cherry red when your driving!).
        
        If your fuel pipes are getting too hot you can get insulation for them from motorsport outlets like Demon Tweeks. This is a metal-foil 'sock' that you slip over the pipe and reflects the heat away. I suppose you could wrap the pipes in tin foil to see if it helps before shelling out!?
        
        I'd be surprised of the problem is the fuel pipe running around the block though, as it's not usually that close to the exhaust (unless the PO had other ideas), but you can get insulation for that too, but it isn't cheap. £45 for enough wrap for the whole exhaust.
        
        I had a similar problem once on my road car and it turned out to be a loose needle valve housing that was flooding the carb and feeding a way too rich mixture to the engine. As long as the throttle was open the engine would run, it idled like a pig and wouldn't re-start when hot. I also recently fixed a stranded spitfire with the same symptoms and his problem turned out to be a jet bearing that was stuck open (full choke position).
        
        So there's a few other checks you can make in the engine bay/carbs, before going for the fuel system.
        
        NiG
        http://www.niginthecar.net

        • failure to start

          Posted By : John Davies, 30-Jun-2003, 11:57pm

          All,
          
          I must endorse Nigel's point about cool air=more power. It's amazing how little this is appreciated.
          
          Last weekend I was at a Japanese Car Show (My other car is an Isuzu Piazza). There were the usual Mitsis, Toys and Scoobys, all decked out with fancy alloy and silicone bits 'n' pieces under their bonnets, but nine out of ten drew their engine air from there as well!
          
          There is a recent thread on this on the Totally Triumph Net (http://www.totallytriumph.net), where varuious authorities estimated that, depending on the outside temperature, 5-10% more power could be gained by fresh cold air into the carbs, instead of under bonnet hot air. Try getting that much extra power any cheaper!
          
          John

          • failure to start

            Posted By : Graham Reeks, 01-Jul-2003, 07:22am

            "Mitsis, Toys and Scoobys" - I ask you what is the TSSC coming to! See you at MaxPower NEC at the weekend John!
            ;0)

            • failure to start

              Posted By : John Davies, 01-Jul-2003, 07:19pm

              Will I recognise you by your wet T-shirt?

• Failure to start

  Posted By : William Davies, 30-Jun-2003, 08:54pm

  Hi Judith,
  Have you investigated the electrical system? The 13/60 isn't usually prone to vapour lock and the story about the petrol pipe around the front of the engine being problematic is certainly a red herring. I would be inclined to check out the condition of the distributor components, particularly the condenser as this is a regular cause of mysterious faults - don't even trust a new one as I have seen many fail straight out of the packet.
  Other than this I would suggest ensuring that the cooling system is in A1 condition. While vapour lock isn't normally a concern on Heralds, an excessively hot engine can cause all sorts of problems. Ensure that all of the cooling pipes are clear (including the inlet manifold pipe) and that the radiator isn't blocked.
  Cheers,
  Bill.