De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Steve Cureton, 28-Mar-2007, 08:34am
Have you treid flushing it through with a hosepipe? If not, disconnect the hoses from the rad, remove the thermostat and put the housing back on, then
flush in both directions continuously on full power until it runs clear. Also do the same with the heater matrix. You and the engine bay will get
soaked so choose a warm day! If this fails to clear it then, as you suggest, you will probably need to remove the core plugs, but they're not always
easy to replace in situ and you can bet you can't get at least one to seal a fterwards.
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Geoff Thirlby, 28-Mar-2007, 10:36am
Yes I have, I've also blasted through the rad and the heater matrix both ways, they are now clear, but I haven't done it by removing the thermostat, so I'll give that a go. Thanks.-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Colin Wake, 28-Mar-2007, 12:14pm
take the drain tap or bolt out of the block and have a good dig round with a screwdriver, you should be able to break through the hardened sludge.
cheers
colin-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis, 28-Mar-2007, 02:56pm
there used to be acid based additives but generally these found more leaks and no cures...not friendly stuff either.
normal washing soda as a strong mix is probably the most economic but dont leave it in for weeks of there will be serious degradation of the alloy parts,,, fill and flush 2 times after .
if you think rad tubes are blocked guess it will need a re core ....pete-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : John Davies, 28-Mar-2007, 06:40pm
Geoff,
If a waterway is totally blocked, then the cleaning solution can only work on the tiny area of one end - no hoper.
These so-called flushers are a fraud.
But, some suggestions.
1/ I suspect that your radiator is partly blocked in the above way. Try removing the thermostat, so that water circulates through the rad at once on starting, and run your hand over the rad as it warms up, I suspect (again!) that you will find columns that stay cool - they are the blocked ones. New rad or a re-core needed.
2/ Take out that threaded plug from the side of the block under the exhaust manifold, about cylinder 5. I'll bet nothing comes out. That is the lowets point of the cooling system and collects all the crud. Probe with screwdrivers, wire, small boys, until water flows out, and continue until it flows clear. The blockage can rise well up the block weater jacket, impeding flow to the rear cylinders.
3/ reverse flush the block via the heater connection.
4/always use a good antifreeze/anticorrosion mixture!
John
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Geoff Thirlby, 28-Mar-2007, 07:16pm
Thanks John,
Just to say that I'm taking the rad to be looked at I noticed it was weeping after putting in the anti-freeze so no doubt I will be told if it needs a re-core.
With regards to the rear engine plug, when I removed this the outlet was tollaly blocked. I have poked around with a piece of wire and pulled out some of the sludge, the coolant now dribbles out so I suspect the water ways are badly blocked.
I called in today to my local MG service agent (yes there are still some about) and asked if they had a trade additive they use, they offered me something called Forte, which they say they don't sell to the public, it's obvisously a pretty obnoxious liquid as it advises you to protective clothing, so I'll try this when I've had the rad repaired, but I suspect I'll still have to remove the core plugs!!-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis, 28-Mar-2007, 08:23pm
i work at a ford dealer forte doesnt do what it says on the tin , fortron sold by many of the hartwell dealerships works to a degree, ldv and mercedes recommend a non biological washing powder like persil .half the price twice as much, put about a cup full into a watering can with hot water, remove thermostate open heater fully or bypass .Pour into header tank run car as normal for 48hrs drain and flush with hose
mick-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Colin Wake, 28-Mar-2007, 08:34pm
Do you have to run the engine non-stop for 48hrs???
Seems a bit squanderous on petrol.
Lots of bubbles though...
Colin
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Ian Osprey, 28-Mar-2007, 08:25pm
Geoff,
I think you may be better to try the cleaner BEFORE you get the radiator sorted.
You'd be really cheesed off if you re-blocked your newly re-cored rad with all the crud you (hopefully) release from the block with the cleaner!!
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Peter & Mick Lewis, 28-Mar-2007, 10:38pm
48 hrs /two days of normal driving// how about mix all the ideas together and if it works fine if it explodes
we all deny any knowlege but the roof would be clean,, best of luck unfortunatley heavy deposits will probably revert to poke and scrape removal as suggested peter/mick
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Paul Dearing, 28-Mar-2007, 11:39pm
I used dish washer detergent in a Rover SD1 engine with good results. It has the advantage of no foaming agents and high de-surfacant effect.
A possible downside is that if there are any small leaks in the system that have been plugged by cooling system sealants, or just by general crud, then doing a good clean and flush will find them out.
A possible downside is that if there are any small leaks in the system that have been plugged by cooling system sealants, or just by general crud, then doing a good clean and flush will find them out.
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Geoff Thirlby, 29-Mar-2007, 09:00am
Paul
Strangely enough I had thought of using dishwasher powder, because I have put the odd cart part in the dish washer before and have had spectacular results. Did you just put in one scoop of powder in warm water and pour into the rad?
If anyone does want to put parts into their dishwasher for cleaning, DO make sure you degrease the part first otherwise you will a have slime left in the dishwasher, but they do bring up parts clean. I put the overflow bottle in and it's like new.
Geoff-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Michael Charlton, 29-Mar-2007, 12:04pm
I use viakal in my beasty. Chuck a bottle in, top up with enough water to get the water pump working and get it going round for a minute. Leave for an hour to stew and flush out.
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De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Paul Dearing, 29-Mar-2007, 05:30pm
I just nipped into my Mum's kitchen and nicked a full standard scoop full of powder. Poured it straight into the rad through the little access hole (not via the header tank) topped it up with hot tap water and started the car. Drove it for a few miles and then flushed (back flush the heater unit as that is where all the big bits get stuck).-
De-sludge the engine
Posted By : Geoff Thirlby, 30-Mar-2007, 07:53am
Thanks everyone for their suggestions, but I'm pleased to say I have now managed to clear the system. I used the Forte I got my local garage and it has done the job! I had to use 3 bottles (1.2 litres) in the system, as it is required to be 20% volume, took out the termostat and ran for an hour, removed the engine block drain plug whilst the system was still fairly hot and out came the crud.
So there is a coolant flush that does work, it's not cheap but put in at the correct strength it's worked wonders.
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