Home
> GT6 > Dashboard and Instruments > Advice on a custom dash layout
needed - particular concerns to gauges and starter button!
Anything and everything GT6.
Section : Dashboard and Instruments
Posted By : Arthur Kaminski, 18-Apr-2007,
06:46pm
Hello there!
I'm planning to do work on my Mk3 GT6 over the summer and along with the engine and interior trim, I want to completely rewire the dash and fit some
extras. This is very long, but if you end up reading this, I&8217;d be very grateful for some advice! I&194;&8217;m a very new enthusiast and want
this car to be a stunner!
I've secured a supplier of the necessary panels (in burr-walnut) without any holes drilled and so, in that sense, I have a clean slate. This is my first
Triumph and I'm not an experienced electrician by no means, but I'm willing to give anything a go.
The image shows what I have in mind, and at this stage I just have a few questions to GT6ers who have more knowledge than me or perhaps have tinkered with
their own dash.
1) How difficult would it be to wire a separate Left and Right indicator signal light? I assume that you take the wires from out of the back of the Speedo,
but that would only give you a single light which shows both L or R, or would it? Otherwise, I presume I&8217;d have to wire it straight from the
indicator part of the wiring loom. Any comment, past attempts, experience here would be most useful!
2) Are there any particular issues with the wiring of the Ammeter and the Voltmeter to the car?
3) In regards to the Oil Pressure gauge (w/ combined Water temperature gauge), I am completely unaware of how this is connected. Enlightenment would be
very useful. Also, does fitting this gauge have any hidden issues which could pose me trouble?
4) I am keeping the ignition key switch on the steering column due to its safety feature, but I find it mildly uncomfortable starting it from down there
and so I&8217;d like to fit a &194;&8216;start panel&194;&8217; somewhere on the dash. Also, I think it looks great! The car has electronic
ignition and this change would consist of an &8216;on/off rocker switch&194;&8217; to activate the starter button and then a standard starter
button as seen on the picture. My questions here are as follows:
a. Can I connect this &8216;starter button&194;&8217; in parallel as opposed to in series to the ignition loom as I&194;&8217;d like to be able
to start the car from both the key and the additional button?
b. I have two places for fitting this in mind, both shown on the picture. Would anyone see any issues for fitting it under the radio? Is there room behind
that panel? I&8217;d much rather find out before dismantling it and finding out it&194;&8217;s not an option!
5) On my intended rocker switch panel, I&8217;d like to have a switch which can manually over-ride the Kenlowe fan I have in place. So, it would be
a 3 position switch 1-completely off, 2-automatically turns on when required, 3-completely on. Is this a possibility? I haven&8217;t looked at the
wiring of the fan yet and I&8217;d just like to hear if anyone has tried this before.
6) I don&8217;t really have any room left for the air vents. Does anyone know of some smaller vents (possibly from a different make/model car) which
are smaller and would still be aesthetically pleasing? Or has anyone tried fitting them downwards, into the foot wells?
If you&8217;ve got down to here, I&194;&8217;m most grateful and if you have the tiniest bit of advice, that would be great. I&194;&8217;ll be
following all the projects on my car on an in-depth website for amateur Triumph enthusiasts like myself so please help me out with this one!
Thanks SO much for the help!
Looking forward to hearing suggestions, comments, advice or concerns!
Arthur
Advice on a custom dash layout needed - particular concerns to gauges and starter button!
-
Posted By : Mark Stradling, 19-Apr-2007,
09:31am
A few thoughts on a couple of the changes
1) To get separate lights you will need to put the bulbs into the left and right sections of the indicator circuit. The single one sits in the common
cicruit that goes to the indicator relay - you would need ones the other side of the relay. I don't see this affecting the standard relay too much -
the bulb won't take too much current so shouldn't have a major impact on the flashing speed (the relay relies on the current running through the
indicator lamps to heat up a bi-metalic strip that bends when it gets hot, braking the circuit then cool, bends back making the circuit again - and
repeat. The more load, the faster it heats up.).
If this does turn out to be a problem switching to a modern, solid state flasher relay is simple and has been covered before (have a search).
4)
a) Can't see why not off the top of my head but then I can't see why you'd want to either. If you have this nice, easy to reach starter button are you
REALLY going to get in the car one morning and think to your self "I know, I really feel like eating the steering wheel and fishing between my legs to
start the car this morning."?
I've got separate ignition key and starter buttons located in the centre panel of my car (steering lock was long dead) - just a simple, understated
black push button.
b) I'd not recommend the lower position. Ignoring killing the ignition on the motorway with your knee/while trying to change the radio this would mean
making quite serious modification to the gearbox tunnel 'H' support. This is an aluminium casting and quite important to the rigidity of the car so
wouldn't recommend cutting holes in it.
5) Should be possible though I'd go for a two position switch - 'auto' and 'on'. No risk of it getting knocked into the 'off' position and you not
noticing until the needle hits the red and steam fills the car.
From memory the kenlow relay has two power feeds - one for auto switching and one for an over-ride switch.
Oh, and might be worth checking out any Mini One's in scrap yards for a nice row of toggle switches.
-
Posted By : Arthur Kaminski, 19-Apr-2007,
11:16am
Thanks for some very good advice!
Point 4:
I'll start by saying that your 'I know...' bit was very entertaining.
The reason I wanted to keep the ignition key downstairs was so that if the button on the dash fails for whatever reason, I can just start it by
means of the key downstairs and address the faulty button at a later stage.
I think your advice about not putting the starter plate below the radio is very good. I completely agree and the whole radio thing never even
occurred to me!
I'll be on the look out for the BMW mini switch panel. I'll try and locate one this weekend and check it for appearance and size.
Thanks for the help!
Any other comments, suggestions, please keep them coming!
THANKS
Arthur!
-
Posted By : Paul Carter,
19-Apr-2007, 12:58pm
i thought your dash lights layout looked familiar..........
-
Posted By : Paul Carter,
19-Apr-2007, 12:59pm
sorry pictures did not load,i'll try again.
-
Posted By : Mark Stradling,
19-Apr-2007, 01:37pm
-
Posted By : Arthur Kaminski,
19-Apr-2007, 01:41pm
Yeah, I was having a look earlier. It's a bit plasticy if you know what I mean, but I could use the metal dividers as they look great.
But thanks for the idea, it certainly is a viable one.
Thanks again,
Arthur
P.S> Has anyone fitted the toggle switches with LED lights at the very tip? Any suggestions to those?
-
Posted By : Stephen Williams,
06-May-2007, 03:30pm
Hi, I'm looking at redoing my dash and have considered putting a glovebox (a proper one) in. Paul, is that just a cosmetic oval or a
glovebox lid? if so did you just hack the frame behind the dash and use the bolt on strength of the ali dash?
Arthur what material are you looking at to remake your dash? I am looking for a supplyer of pre-finished burr plywood or similar have
you found one?
-
Posted By : Charles
Bushell, 06-May-2007, 04:52pm
-
Posted By : Arthur
Kaminski, 06-May-2007, 05:58pm
The club shop said they can supply Bur Walnut dashes without the holes drilled, so you can do your own layout. But the price
remains the same.
So actually, the link above seems a very cost effective solution! How 'plastic' is the laminate? Or should I only consider
going for the real stuff?
As for Pauls' dash, I actually went to see him today but I forgot to ask about the glovebox, despite sitting right infront of
it! If it is real, he must have a very clever locking mechanism, as it simply looked like an oval cut out and then
reapplied!
Arthur
-
Posted By : Charles Bushell, 06-May-2007, 07:11pm
I was thinking of the real wood but you could ask them for a sample of the laminate.
I re-veneered my own dash, not quite professional standard perhaps but I'm pleased with it. Veneer is cheap but the
varnishing takes patience!
Advice on a custom dash layout needed - particular concerns to gauges and starter button!
-
Posted By : Tom Longley, 06-May-2007, 07:42pm
Hi, go for the real wood veneer as opposed to a plastic copy. (Have you seen a Vauxhall Omega?! NOI.)
From a practical point of view, will you get the manufacturer to cut the holes in the dashboard or are you going to do
it yourself? Whilst cutting the holes for the instruments is probably relatively straightforward, as the instrument
itself is larger than the hole so allowing for a margin of error (I'm sure you would do it more accurately than I!) but
the glovebox lid will need a relatively fine tolerance and nicely "finished" edges on both door and aperture.
How is progress with the project?
Regards,
Tom
P.S. Charles, your dash looks great. Nic bit of veneer. Was it difficult to do?
-
Posted By : Charles Bushell, 06-May-2007, 08:33pm
Thanks. Sticking on the veneer was quite easy, layed all three dash sections onto the veneer together, left them
under some heavy weights overnight & trimmed them the next day. Used flap wheels in the drill for the
instrument holes.
Varnishing & sanding was a pain, must have put on a dozen coats!
Cutting (recessed) holes for the instruments isn't difficult with a sharp hole saw, I added one for the oil gauge.
To do a glove box in an already veneered panel would be almost impossible. You really need to make the two parts
& veneer them afterwards.
-
Posted By : Arthur Kaminski, 07-May-2007, 08:23am
Well, I've purchased all the necessary Smiths dials:
Fuel
Water Temp/Oil Pressure combination
Amp
Volt
Clock
Now, i just need to pick up all the other bits and pieces and I'll start work in late June, as I've got school
until then! But yes, I'm tempted to go with the real wood. Alternatively, perhaps the club shop 'burr walnut'
panels without any holes drilled is starting to seem like a good option. Its expensive but at least the finish is
perfect.
I'm going to have to think about it!
Keep the photo's of dash's coming in!
-
Posted By : Paul
Carter, 06-May-2007, 09:54pm
that oval conceals my cocktail cabinet!..........but seriously there's nothing behind it yet,i will get round to fitting a proper
glove box one day though.
