Anything and everything GT6.

Hi all, I am currently rebuilding a Mk3 non rotoflex. Working on the N/S at the mo and have replaced the rear wing / wheel arch/rear inner wing/repaired the boot floor etc etc etc. The floor pan will have to be replaced but I have just cut this back for now to allow me to replace all the sill structure. The car is bolted down to a dummy chassis made from 2in x2in box steel supported on 2 engine stands allowing me to turn the whole body over, the doors are braced. With the door sitting in its hole the lower crease matches the back wing nicely and runs parrellel with the sill which is just clamped on at the mo. I have had to replace the lower A panel and repair the section that the sill joins to by the bonnet shut line.

Sorry for chapter and verse but my question is.........With the door fitting right to the back wing and sill, where should the top of the sill match in relation to the door crease.At present it is bang on the door crease line but this is some 10 mm higher than the other side!! Can anybody give me a measurment??or advise??

Thanks
Richard

If your door is known to be the right shape, and your sill is a quality item, align so that there is the factory specified panel gap of 5/16" (5mm) all round. The top front edge of the sill will have to be in the right place.
Cheers,
Bill.

Thanks Bill, thinking about it I was a bit thick then!!!!!!! as you say, if the gap on the bottom of the door is ok, which it is, and the door is good, which it is, and the sill is a good one(heritage part) then really I cant be far wrong!!!.I will try and post a pic, thanks

Richard

Not so fast!

I am sure Bill knows but the gap should be 3/16 (5mm) around and is almost always 5/16 (8mm) between the door and bonnet, A 3/16 gap all the way round is a definite rarity.
Also I would find it almost impossible to correctly weld the sill structure before fitting the floor as the inner sill sits on it and the stiffener panel and outer sill weld to the flange.
As regarding Heritage panels, they are good but certainly not perfect reproductions of the originals.
1. The outer floor flange for the sill is not as deep as the original which makes the whole sill assembly try to sit higher than it wants to.
2. The area around the outrigger to floor bracket is poor and the bracket never fits in place as it should.
3. The Heritage sill always sits inboard from the door at the horizontal shut line, usually this needs 'encouraging' outward to get a nice gap.

I would love for someone to write back that I'm doing it all wrong and the reason is x, but I've done a lot of these and they always fit, or don't fit in exactly the same manner.

Tim

Willow Triumph

Thanks Tim, My concern with leaving the floor in while the sill was removed was to try and retain some strenghth to the body,although its sitting on a dummy frame and the doors are braced I was still a bit worried.

The gaps are not bad although the radius around the bottom of the trailing end of the door to start of rear wing abutment does look a little large and I have had to shorten the sill a bit to get the leading radius to door start point to look about right.
Unfortunately the inner sill and stiffener are tacked in now, this was on recomendation of another club member so floor position is now going to be a bit of a suck it and see.

Regards
Richard

Tim,
Just reading back though the archives for some advice and came across your message from last december, and wondering whether the problem I'm having is related to what you observed then.

I'm having a bit of a problem getting the flange on the replacement floor pan to line up with the replacement A post lower (TS52) panel. The floor seems to sit naturally about 10-15mm too high from where the A post bottom flange wants to be. The floor pan has been tacked to the bulkhead flange (so that sets the height of the floor from the front) and it lines up nicely both with the rear heelboard and the chassis mounting points (both centre console mounting points and the chassis floor cross member. All this suggests to me that the floor is at pretty much the correct height. Also. there's not much relative distortion that I could have accidently made between the bulkhead area and the A post, as that structure is reasonably rigid... Well, certainly not enough to make 10-15mm difference.

Is this what you were describing in point (1) your message? I could probably force the floor pan to be lower towards the front outer edge, but I wouldn't want to distort it unnecessarily. If this is the same problem you find, how do you get around it? I haven't welded in the A post lower panel yet, so that could be modified to suit, if necessary....

Thanks
Peter

Section : Doors

Sill/door line up

Followups :

Sill/door line up

Sill/door line up

Sill/door line up

Sill/door line up

Sill/door line up