Anything and everything GT6.

Hi

I am just about to crawl under my car, dust mask on wire brush in hand.
The aim is to take off any of loose underseal that may be lurking below. Once cleaned off back down to bare metal what do I recoat it with, any ideas, hammerite ? underseal ? any help would be much appriciated.
Awaiting response whilst laid upside down on a cold concrete garage floor.
Many thanks
Chris

Hi Chris,

I'll watch this post with baited breath. I have just got my GT6 chassis back from the shot blasters and am now in a quandary as to how to treat it. I'd like to have it galvanised but I don't know of anywhere locally. So will probably end up priming with something like Zinc 182 (I think it's called) and painting with 'chassis black'

Hope you see some replies soon.

Regards,

On bare metal if there is any trace of rust treat it with a rust converter such as "Jenolite" & if necessary work it in with wire wool. Then paint with a zinc primer such as "Bonda primer", Zinc 182 is probably good too but I haven't used it. Then paint with your top coat. I wouldn't use Hammerite on anything that's exposed as it chips off VERY easily.

If your chassis has been blasted paint it straight away before it rusts! I had mine painted with black "Keyphos" then powder coated. It's standing up very well & cost about Â£100 a few years ago.

Charlie

I would like to suggest that you have the chassis covered with a zinc primer and then powder coated, as I did my chassis. No regrets. The finish is very tough and durable, in the same colour as the body, and easy to maintain. The internal chassis frame received several waxoil treatments, as i intended to be able to use the car in summer and winter conditions, rather than leave her in the garage when it is wet outside.
I have included several photos of the results on my website as "proof of the pudding".

Galvanising or spraying could be difficult when the chassis is still attached to the car!!

I stick to underseal, preferably Tetroseal from Carplan.

Don't bother trying to remove underseal you can't scrape off with a wire brush, because it is doing its job. And don't paint underseal on greasy/oily surfaces, because it won't stick. Clean first.

Van

Thanks all !

Van's right, I am working on the chassis in situ so I will leave the Hammerite alone and stick with the tried and tested underseal.

Thanks again Chris

Its interesting reading the different views. I think as long as the rust has been treated/cured, that all the options mentioned will work fine with regular checks.

I am currently under my '71 MK IV Spitfire cleaning the chassis and underside back to bare metal.

It has been coated (poorly in places) with the biumastic underseal. My view is that it looks awful, and I always wonder just what is lurking behind the think layers that get slapped on!

I am using a combination of very solid steel scraper, multi shaped paint scraper and hot air paint stripping gun (electric).
It is fiddley because the floor pans are covered in contours and the gap between floor pan and chassis is tight, but I have almost finished one side. After that i shall wipe down with white spirit to remove the smears of tar left behind, and rust treat any exposed steel. it is my intention to use a suitable undercoat and gloss black hammerite, which I know is less resilient than tar, but does look 100% better and with annual checkups will do the job perfectly.

I am replacing all brake/fuel pipes as well, and when fitted along a gleaming gloss black chassis rail it really does look "the dogs"! Fitting the pipes along saggy dull bitumastic seems such a waste.

Good luck with the restoration. I'll report back with anything I find that may help future saddos like me that spend their spare time scraping crap off of old cars!!

John

I try to fill my cavities with a wax oil product once a year and also give the under a quick once over as well. I see it as maintenance, IÂ’ve done mine in acid etch and two pack, and although I can touch up the chips in two pack, I may opt for hammerite as it easier, and you can see a problem developing before its two late

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