Anything and everything GT6.

Getting my GT6 Conv ready for MOT a week on Monday followed by the best part of 1000 mile round trip to La Sarthe on the Thursday

Trying to spend a couple of hours on her each night and complete a task each day.

Tonight I have finished topping up the gearbox oil (a lot more went in than came out ...ooops) and refitted the gearbox tunnel with liberal use of gaffer tape to try prevent some of the engine smells.

I have then turned my attention to the F/N/S wheel which has a bit of play - not much but I don't want to take any chances with the MOT man 'cos I 'aint got the time for a retest.

I managed to get the castellated nut to tighten up another hole but I still have the same amount of play in the wheel.

Last year I fitted a new stub axle and ball joint to this side, the trunions were replaced the year before and the rack is probably 5 years old.

After 6 years of ownership I am still learning everytime something needs fixing - any ideas where I should look next?

Play is side to side (if that makes sense) I grab the wheel on the sides and can feel a bit of movement.

Suggestions welcome!

James,
If you grip the wheel at the sides to wiggle it, you will confuse steering play with bearing play.
Grip it top and bottom for bearing assessment.

If there is bearing play, tighten the castellated nut until you can feel resistance to roatation of the wheel, then back off and retighten finger-tight.
Check again for play and adjust. See the relevant chapter in your WSM.
If you drill a second hole for the split pin, at right angles to the first through the stub axle, you can achieve finer adjustment than with just one - there are twelve possible positions fot the nut, not just six.

Good luck!

John

no play top and bottom.

sounds like I need to back off the castellated nut as it is tight.

What could side to side play be?

I think you should find there are already two holes for the split pin in the stub axle, for the very purpose you describe. Triumph specified a small amount of endfloat on the front wheel bearings (about 2 thou from memory) so you should be able to feel a trace of play at the wheel rim. This should "feel" about the same when gripping the wheel at "6 o'clock" and also at "quarter to three".
Play felt at quarter to three but not at 6 o'clock is more likely to be in the steering. However, that need not be a problem depending on how much there is, and whether it is the same on the other front wheel. A useful check is with the car on its wheels and seeing what play there is at the steering wheel. Worth doing this from outside the car looking at the right hand wheel and seeing exactly when movement of the steering wheel results in movement of the roadwheel. Up to 1" at the steering wheel rim is apparently allowed by the MOT, but a Triumph rack should be MUCH less than this. There should be VERY little perceptible slack in the steering.
If there is, and it's the same at both wheels, it could be the rack itself or the lower steering column joint. If it's mre pronounced on one side than the other, it's more likely to be inner or outer track rod joint. The outers need replacing, but the inners can be reshimmed. A messy job because of all the grease in the rack gaiters, but quite satisfying to do oneself. Surprising how a few thou of play in the inner joint can feel like MUCH more.
It's also worth checking that all bolts are tight, and bushes in good nick (including the rack mounts).

Thanks - play seems to be just on one side - I'll check everything is tight in the steering then look at the components you describe.

I can feel the play when driving so I'd rather eliminate it even if it is within acceptable limits for MOT.

I'll have learnt a bit more too!

Chris,

Might sound daft but is a "track rod joint" the same as a "tie rod end" as described in the triumph manual?

If so it looks pretty original on my car so I'll change it and see if it is any better.

Cheers

Yes, same item. Only change the end joint if there is discernable play in it. Try gripping the track/tie rod and moving the wheel from side to side, or even better, get someone to rock the steering wheel side to side while you grip the track rod and the steering arm and see if one moves relative to the other. This is best done with the car's weight on the wheel, or an axle stand under the lower wishbone so the suspension is in its running position, and hence the ball joint in the track rod end in its usual position also.
Grip the track rod and steering rack, or even better, the inner joint, gripped through the rack gaiter, to identify play in the inner joint. You should be able to feel the big hexagonal shape rod inside the gaiter. The track rod is relatively thin (it pokes out through the gaiter) and the rack itself is circular but a bit bigger in diameter. The inner joint is the big bit between the two! It moves side to side as the wheels turn.

Thanks again folks.

Fitted the new tie rod end and no play six o'clock or quarter to three. Feels a lot more responsive on the road too.

A complete sod to fit though - just would not separate and had to take loads of other "bits" off and give it some good persuasion.

I've asked the garage to check the alignment when she'd in for MOT.

Cheers

I have fixed the play at the wheel but she has failed due to excessive play in the "lower steering column flexible coupling".

I have looked in the manual which tells me how to remove the steering unit involving use of a hoist and sling to lift up the engine.

Do I really need to do all of this?

Which part is likley to be worn, and is there an easier way of getting to it and renewing it?

fingers crossed.....

James, there is another alternative to the flexible coupling you have had your car fail it's mot with.

the big saloons use a universal joint to join the splined shafts of the steering column and the steering rack. It is possible to remove and replace these joints without lifting the engine as I have done so, although there isn't a great deal of room to work.

If you contact the suppliers (possibly trying the big saloon suppliers first) they will be able to furnish you with the required part for about &163;30

don't forget the lower column telescopes up into the upper to make swapping the joints easier

jonathan

Rarebits4classics sell an uprated and much improved steering column lower coupling.

I intend buying one for my Vitesse.

Rgds

L&195;&169;on

Got a Rarebits joint in my Spitfire and very happy with it.

Also worth checking that telescoping bit that Jonathan mentions.
That can be loose.
There is a clamp half way up the column, inside the car, that needs to be tightened carefully.
An Allen-key headed bolt and a lock nut.
Tighten bolt first
John

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Play in wheel - Failed MOT Lower steering column excessive play

Play in wheel - Failed MOT Lower steering column excessive play

Play in wheel - Failed MOT Lower steering column excessive play

Play in wheel - Failed MOT Lower steering column excessive play

Play in wheel - Failed MOT Lower steering column excessive play