Posted By : Chris Taylor, 21-Jan-2005,
07:11pm
BTDT! And it was a HORRIBLY messy job, getting completely caked up to the eyeballs with grease. But it is not as bad as you might think. While it can
be done in situ (at least on some Triumph cars, I think the first one I did was a Triumph 2000; all the racks use the same type of inner joint and the
same shims) it is easier to take the rack off as you need some big spanners and/or a bench vice to undo the big locking nut.
I can't help with supplier of shims as I last did this job 20 years ago and bought the shims from my local BL dealer! Given the right part numbers
there were no problems in getting the bits. The shims come in 2 thicknesses (0.004" and 0.010" ? = 4 thou and 10 thou from memory) and I think are the
same for all the Herald family and 2000/1300/TR4-6 and Dolomite cars. If you know what you are asking for I expect most of the reputable club suppliers
can provide the shims. All reconditioners must use them.
As the shims do not wear it IS possible to raid them off a spare or "scrap" rack, but that doubles the amount of time you've got to wade around in
grease! The shims are of a very simple shape (like a washer, round with a hole in the middle) so they can be made easily from the right thickness of
shim stock, but you really need sharp punches for the inner hole. All the edges must be smooth and free of burrs for the shim to sit true.
Decent workshop manuals will tell you how to adjust the joint (and also the pinion engagement in the rack if you are really keen!) by selective
assembly with shims. You need to assemble the joint dry to judge the fit which must NOT be tight but also without play. You'd be amazed by how much
play you can feel by wiggling the track rod, but the actual clearance (=wear) in the inner joint is quite tiny. You will very soon establish the right
combination of shims.
Although not strictly correct, I polished the ball end in the joint with very fine emery paper to ensure there were no ridges and to ensure the joint
operated smoothly prior to trial assembly with shims.
All of this sounds terribly complicated. IT ISN'T. If you've assembled an engine, or worked on a gearbox, this is easier! (Just messy though! There's
so much grease inside the gaiter if previous maintenance has been done OK!) Should you do it?
If there are other faults with the rack, probably not, but if the only problem is the inner joints (and I've had two or three racks where that was the
only problem) I would definitely say yes. It is relatively easy to do (and half the aggro is getting the old rack out which you've got to do to fit a
new one anyway) and will save you a lot of money. Added to which you maintain originality (!) and are sure you've got the right ratio, know the state
of your rack, and will end up with a sense of achievement!
If only someone would sell the infamous plastic button on the left side of the rack we could almost put the reconditioners out of business!