Anything and everything GT6.

Rear axle, brakes, wheels and tyres.

Hi, I am going to strip the rear suspension of my late MkIII. I do not want to remove the hub though and was wondering, will I be able to remove the brake back plate or the vertical link with the hub still in place?
Basically I want to renew the trunnion bushes, etc, and give the rear suspension a tidy up and paint. Just interested to know how far I can strip it, before I actually start.

This job has been done, inour sleep, in rain and sleet and snow.
You cannot remove the brake mounting back plate without removing the hub.
For the sake of ten minutes in removing it will save loads of time trying to work around it.
Remove axle lock nut
Remove hub
Do not remove brake shoes etc leave everything on the back plate
Undo 4 bolts to brg housing after bending back two 'c ' washer tabs
Take away bolts and grease seal
Back plate will come away and pull forwards over axle taper
Suspend without removing brake pipes
Undo trailing arm bolt and remove
Chock the leaf spring with two jacks and a cross member take up the strain of spring and weight of trunnion and axle
Undo and knock out trunnion bolt
Pull trunnion out of vertical links
Replace trunnion set
Reverse procedure to assemble
If you cannot get the trunnion bolt out, then you will have to remove axle from four bolts on diff and gently lower jacks, undo and remove spring susp bolt and pull the whole lot out from the car.Then belt the jiggery out of the trunnion bolt until it comes out

Easy peasy...........one hour

Mike

Oh if you remove the whole lot then whilst on the floor you may as well replace bearings inner and outer!!

Mike, I tried putting your previous post to a number of tunes but it just doesn't seem to go

do tell, what is the tune for your lyrics???

jonath

its speed-metal you wouldnt understand.

All this assumes you have the proper hub puller! Not worth attempting if you do not. And the estimate of 1 hour probably assumes that you do not need to saw through the trunnion bolt (see endless threads on this score!!) I can't recall ever being that lucky! (Memo to self to use EVEN MORE Coppereze grease next time).
Unless you need to change the hub bearings, or grease seal, or the backplate itself, all the other service or replacement jobs can be done with the backplate in situ. And unless you need to change the UJ, with the axle shaft left on the car. (You will need to support both sides of the car off the ground, probably remove the shock absorbers at one end to allow the suspension to fully bottom out, and possibly devise a form of spring lifter in order to remove and replace the spring eye bolt; the load on the swing spring on one wheel will try to push the other side of the spring down).

Thanks Chris, that's all I needed to know, I am hoping the rear bearings are OK. Really just wanted to strip down for a re-paint and re-bush. It seems I will be able to remove the vertical link and work around the back plate.
I don't have a hub puller or any means to replace the hub (press?) once I am done. Thanks for the info about getting both sides of the car up in the air for spring eye bolt removal.

Regards, Steve.

If you do need to attend to the wheel bearings, buying the pukka puller would be worth doing. I think the Club Shop do (or did) one, and Canley also do (and a bit cheaper from memory). There may be someone on your area who could lend you one. Once the hub is released from the taper on the end of the driveshaft (usually with a frightening bang!), you need no presses or special tools to replace it. Just a torque wrench to do up the nut again.

Hi Chris,
I think there may be a hub puller in our club membership. I may just do a proper job of it after all. I was under the impression that the hub needed to be pressed back on to the driveshaft, I have a feeling that I will need a bigger torque wrench to loan as well!!

Thanks, Steve.

It's only the rotoflex hub that needs pressing back into place. You will need a torque wrench that goes up to about 100lb/ft. (Can't remember the precise figure, but it's in that ballpark!)

The hub and bearings need to be carefully drifted squarely back onto the shaft - the manual shows special tools, I had some brass drifts made up to do the job.

BIN MAN

Rap a Rap
Gonna give some clap trap
Oy, Bin man
Gonna make a din man
Cos I forgot the shock
And the car might rock
Give it some chock
Before it rock
Then wit jack
And nother at back
Dont need a lifter
Cos a brace will shift er
Put a jack either side
Of the spring, abide
Then put a shaft
Under the spring, sounds daft
Then jack up spring
Hey ding ding
It lifts the spring to height
Then the shaft aint as tight
Done its times before
An it works,oh cor!!

Sorry only just woke up and read the thread
Fancy that type of rap all the way on our continental tour?????

Mike

.... or a bit of heavy gauge tubing!
Then measure the distance as you hit on, should be 65 t0 70 mm from end of shaft to wall of housing or side of bearing
Mike

Section : Rear Axle

Back plate

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