Binding Brakes
Posted By : Nigel Gibbins, 26-Jun-2003, 10:23pm
Hi, - my first guess would be the front calipers are probably in need of attention. If they have started to 'go' then they may not be returning
properly after you have applied them. If you repeatedly use them in short succession - the effects would normaly be exaggerated. This, of course, could
also apply to the rear if the slaves are getting on and sticking.
If it were the master cylinder I would expect the opposite ti be the case - eg no brakes as it wouldn't be able to build the pressure to operate them and the same goes for the servo - although I'm no expert on servo's.
What I'd normally do would be to take each wheel off and spin it by hand, have a friend apply the brakes and then spin it again - how stiff is it? The reason I take the wheel off is so you don't get the extra leverage pushing on the tyre would give you.
Hope this generates a few ideas.
NiG
http://www.niginthecar.net
If it were the master cylinder I would expect the opposite ti be the case - eg no brakes as it wouldn't be able to build the pressure to operate them and the same goes for the servo - although I'm no expert on servo's.
What I'd normally do would be to take each wheel off and spin it by hand, have a friend apply the brakes and then spin it again - how stiff is it? The reason I take the wheel off is so you don't get the extra leverage pushing on the tyre would give you.
Hope this generates a few ideas.
NiG
http://www.niginthecar.net
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Mk 3 Brake servo
Posted By : Ingrid Nagel, 27-Jun-2003, 06:34pm
Greetings all. I am new to the world of triumphs, so forgive me if I don't make sense. I purchased a 1973 GT6 Mk 3 a few weeks ago which I am trying to get back on the road, but the brakes are giving me a few problems. The servo has basically given up the good fight and needs replacing, but rather than the Lockheed kit, is there any other servo that I could obtain easily from a scrapyard which would do the job for a fraction of the cost?
I think the Mk 3 golfs and polos were fitted with remote servos?
Other than the brakes the car is in really good condition. The paint is shocking, but it will be getting a respray before long...
Cheers. -
Binding Brakes
Posted By : John Davies, 29-Jun-2003, 11:46pm
Peter,
Are you sure this isn't the hand brake?
When they bindup, are the front or rear wheels hot?
I've had this problem with the hand brake. Rear jacked up, brakes adjusted perfectly, drive away and half a mile later the rear wheels were solid, and so was the hand brake lever. The solution was to raise the back end by jacking (and inserting stands - can't have the safety police doing me over again!) under the rear uprights, rather than the chassis. The rear suspension can take some time to settle back down to the running height after being jacked up.
John-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : Peter Boxshall, 30-Jun-2003, 05:40pm
John,
I am pretty sure that it isn't the rear, having had another look at the Weekend. The rear wheels are cold and the front get fairly warm. I have had in the past a situation where the (self adjusting) rear brakes used to adjust up and put the brakes on quite severely but I fixed that by snapping of the ends of the auto adjuster arms. (I don't like self adjusting brakes). I shall be taking the callipers off and exercising the pistons asap. I shall also inspect under the dust boots to see how much rusty/dirt there is.
Interestingly the Leyland manual does not caution about handbrake adjustment with the car up on stands and I have also been suspicious in the past of an overtight cable but I am sure in this case it is not the problem.
Peter-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : John Davies, 30-Jun-2003, 07:30pm
Peter,
Cold rear wheels and warm fronts rules that out. But is one front wheel warmer that the other? That would point to a peripheral problem, rather than a central, master cylinder one - of course, BOTH calipers can seize!
An alternative to caliper problems could be de-laminated flexible brake pipes - the rubber kind. The internal layer can seperate and form a one way valve, building up pressure in the caliper as you drive, until the pistons can't back off. I would suggest replacing them first - cheaper than a caliper renovation, and well worth it unless yours are relatively new.
John-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : Peter Boxshall, 30-Jun-2003, 08:29pm
John,
both front wheels are the same temperature i.e., quite warm. The hoses are fairly new and are small bore sheathed in steel braid (Goodrich?). I replaced the pads about 6 months ago and I can't remember if the problem has only occurred since or not. The new pads do however produce a lot of grey/black residue on the front wheels, I don't know if this is a factor? I think the problem becomes less frequent in the cooler weather but I could be imagining that.
Peter-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : John Davies, 01-Jul-2003, 07:49pm
Peter,
That excludes a brake pipe problem, I think. The brake dust on the wheels is inevitable, especially with new pads.
But BOTH front wheels are equally hot. That could be due to both calipers being equally siezed - unlikeley I feel. Do you have a dual circuit brake system, and does that seperate the front and back brakes, or is it diagonally divided? If the former, the equally hot front wheels would point back to a M/c, front circuit problem, rather than simultaneous caliper problems.
In such systems, there is a "differential pressure warning actuator". This could possibly block one arm of a split brake system. I have to admit that I have no experience of these split systems - I'm working from the manual now!
If none of this applies, a close examination of the pads - are they worn evenly or is one of the pair more worn as the other piston siezes? - or, grasping the nettle, a pair of newly renovated calipers. I'm impressed by Classicar Automotive for brake work - but they cost a lot.
John-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : Peter Boxshall, 02-Jul-2003, 07:09pm
John,
I am certainly hoping that the solution will be a cheap one.
Occasionally when I feel that the brakes are slightly on, suddenly the car progress speeds up (slightly) as if the brakes come off. My investigation last weekend was hampered by the reluctance of my trolley jack to lift the front of the car to do a "hot" check on the rotation resistance of the front wheels as soon as I got home in the car. It may be, that if the problem is with the calipers, dissassembly & a cleaning type overhaul may suffice(?).
Peter-
Binding Brakes
Posted By : Pete Keating, 05-Nov-2004, 10:22am
I've come rather late to this thread (see - I did search rather than just post a new question
The front brakes also bind on my MK3 - can anyone advise me on how to try and cure it before reverting to the [usual] expensive solutions...
For example is it worth pushing out the caliper pistons a little, cleaning them up with some brake cleaner then pushing them back in? Or is a full caliper refurb the only real solution (assuming it's not one of the other probs mentioned elswhere in this thread).
I've owned the car since Aug and it's a LOT of fun
It's hard to
look cool driving slowly with the engine burbling and the brakes going skeek.. skeeek... skeeek.. though LOL.
Cheers,
Pete.
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Binding Brakes
Posted By : Nigel Gibbins, 05-Nov-2004, 11:46am
Pete,
skeek, skeek, skeek....
... this doesn't sound like brake binding to me
so much as anti-squeal shims may be missing. My GT6 was just the same at first, but I fitted the shims (4 at a quid
each) with a bit of copperslip/grease on the back and the noise stops.
Try checking... if they aren't there fit some and maybe save yourself a packet
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Binding Brakes
Posted By : John Davies, 05-Nov-2004, 12:07pm
Pete,
or even a stone between the disc and the disc shield - if you still have them.
Try driving smartly backwards in a circle - an empty car park is a good place! - in both directions, to see if it will shake loose.
John
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Binding Brakes
Posted By : Peter Boxshall, 30-Jun-2003, 05:29pm
Thanks for the thoughts NiG, I am suspicious that maybe it is sticking pistons in the callipers. The symptom only appears when I've done a few miles.
I am suspicious that when I have slowed to a stop (when they stick) and then wiggle the steering wheel before I pull away again - I think sometimes the brakes have come off a bit. (Nice slack wheel bearings).
Peter