I have just had my GT6 Mk 3 gearbox rebuilt and I have been having problems getting second gear on the way down the box and first gear at times when
starting off. I have been told that it maybe due to a worn gear lever reverse stop screw (part no 118054). Is this the case? If so, where can I obtain one
as Rimmers due not have any and say that the part is unobtainable.
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Posted By : Nigel Clark, 12-Jul-2007,
11:18am
Colin,
I have two suggestions:
1. Often difficulties engaging gears are due to clutch drag (clutch not disengaging fully). Is the clutch operation OK, or does it seem to engage with
the pedal very near to the floor, which would indicate a problem? As the gearbox was put back into the car was the clutch arm correctly located to the
slave cylinder (getting the pushrod to engage properly can be fiddly)? Does the clutch hydraulic system need bleeding, are there any signs of fluid
leaks from slave or master cylinders?
2. Rebuilt gearboxes can be tight/stiff to start off but normally loosen up over the first 1,000 miles. I replaced the gearbox in my GT6 Mk3 last year
and the gear change was tight to start but is now much better, just through using it!
Good luck,
Nigel
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Posted By : Colin Bassett, 12-Jul-2007,
03:54pm
Thanks for the advice, I was hoping it was the box just being tight and would sort itself out after a while. I had my spitfire box rebuilt by the
same people and it is fine now (3000 miles since rebuild).
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Posted By : Chris Taylor, 12-Jul-2007,
12:26pm
It would be unusual for this to cause the problem you describe except in cases of extreme wear. The screw referred to is what stops the gearlever
moving into the reverse gear plane without depressing the lever. While some wear on this pin (or the baulk plate it has to pass under to get to the
reverse gear plane) might allow the gearlever to move towards reverse and not be able to move fore and aft in the 1st/2nd gear plane. Does it feel at
all as if the gearlever moves too far to the left, or moves too easily towards reverse?
This pin is screwed into the bottom of the gearlever and there is some adjustment available on it. There is also a little vertical adjustment available
on the reverse baulk plate. If the pin is worn and tending to slide under the baulk plate when it shouldn't, I'd try lowering the plate slightly, or
even turning it round through 180 degrees to place the unworn face towards the gearlever. If however the pin is misadjusted, allowing the gearlever to
rest too far to the left or too far to the right, it will tend not to allow the gearlever to "find" the right 1st/2nd gear "slot" in the selector
housing. You'd need to feel which way the gearlever need to move to adjust this. (All of this assumes that all the other bushes in the remote linkage
are unworn. If worn, these will give the symptoms you describe. Easy enough to replace, but should have been done on a rebuilt gearbox).
However, after all that speil, I'd not expect the problem to be with that pin, or even the remote linkage at all. Sounds more like a dragging clutch or
even some problem with the 1st/2nd gear synchro hub.
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Posted By : Colin Bassett, 12-Jul-2007,
03:55pm
Thanks for the advice, I will look into your suggestion to see if it helps.
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Posted By : Nigel Gibbins, 12-Jul-2007,
01:03pm
I would go for the dragging clutch as a prime candidate... time for a bleeding ??