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Section : Engine
Engine, cooling system, fuel system, exhaust system.
Posted By : Adam Hieke, 28-May-2005, 06:39pm
Ive just purchased a Triumph GT6 mk 2 and had it running only a couple of days, when my girlfriend, sitting in the passenger seat, and wearing a short
skirt started complaing of a very Hot draft on her legs!!? ....... on later inspection, not of her legs but rather the engine it would seem that the lower
rear Core plug (which faces the bulkhead) has sprung a leak. I therefore assume that the hot draft on her leg was the steam from the water hitting the gear
box.
Engine Temperature on the Temp gauge seems to be remaining in the middle, however, water in the cooling system is slowly but surely going down.
Subsequently i have been filling it back up.
What I would like to know is whether my temporary fix idea of flushing through the cooling system with BARS FLSUH cleaner, and then subsequently placing
BARS LEAKS fluid into the system to try and seal the hole is going to work, and how easy will it be to replace this rear Core Plug. Will i need to have the
engine taken out???? or is it possible to do it without this costly excercise.
Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated!!
Adam
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Posted By : Chris Taylor, 31-May-2005,
11:51am
Any flushing agent is likely to make matters worse. If the leak is very small, then Bars leaks may make a temporary repair. Wouldn't bank on it though
(but what have you to lose providing you keep a careful eye on leakage).
Other bodges involve epoxy resin (araldite etc) on the core plug itself.
However the proper fix is a new plug, and ideally they should all be replaced as the others may be similarly corroded and ready to spring a leak,
especially when you fill up with new antifreeze.
As to whether it can be fitted in situ, it all depends on which one it is. You lever the old one out with a screwdriver through the middle (that's past
the point of no return for starters!!) and seal in the new one with a hammer sqaure on the face. If you can manipulate a screwdriver and hammer in the
space available, then it can be done in the car. If not.............
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Posted By : Adam Hieke, 31-May-2005,
05:00pm
Thanks Chris for you reply.
Over the weekend i did the deed. I flushed the cooling system through and the filled it back up with Antifreeze and BARS FLUSH. Fingers crossed it
seems to have temporarily solved the problem, after a few miles this weekend the water in the cooling system doesnt seem to have gone down.
It would appear that most of the core plugs, those on the side of the engine block have been replaced quite recently, but the ones on the end,
against the Bulkhead were obviously left because they were difficult to get to.
If the BARS LEAKS holds out then i have two choices.
1. Take out the Engine and replace all the core plugs and do all those other things that can then be got at i.e Engine mounts....etc.
2. According to a guy who owns a local garage it is possible to get to the end core plug by talking out the dash board and gear box covering, a
little bit of hassel, but perhaps a cheaper alternative?
Hopefully this can be a winter project when the cars off the road!!
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Posted By : John Davies,
31-May-2005, 08:40pm
Adam,
Once you have the gearbox cover off, have or can borrow/hire an engine crane or other secure lifter, removing the engine has got be simpler
than dismantling the dashboard. The wiring for a start would take me a day.
Go for the engine out. Have a list of things to do, do them, put it back.
And take out the engine and gearbox in one piece - much easier than aligning the input shaft inside the car.
John