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Posted By : Mark Wessendorff, 09-Apr-2005,
07:48pm
Hi, I am in the process of changing my head gasket on my MK1 GT6 and have run into a problem when screwing down the cylinder head studs. I torqued down the
studs using the double nut method and on one stud caused the surrounding area to start fracturing as shown in the attached picture. The picture has beem
magnified. There is no sign of cracking down the inside of the stud hole or the side of the pushrod wall. The 3 cracks run outwards away from the pistons
and collant channels. Where you see the 1mm scale ruler at the top of the picture is the section where the pushrods are installed. I am sure I was worng to
torque down the studs before putting the head back on and cried blue murder when I realised the fracturing that this caused!! I spoke to a couple of
dealers who were open this morning (Jigsaw and Quiller) and they both advised that I should be using new studs and nuts anyway as the old ones I was using
can only be correctly torqued once. I have therefore stopped installing the gasket and ordered in a complete set of new stud and nuts (&163;60ish
quid!) and plan to complete the install later next week when they arrive. Please can I have some advice as to whether this fracture will give me any
problems and will I be OK to as it is or will I need to renew the engine block (god forbid!) or get it skimmed, fracture welded / soldered or just put in a
small amount of liquid stud lock when I install the new stud (as suggested by Jigsaw).
How tight should I tighten down the studs before putting the head back on? Really P***ed off and desperate for help/advice on this.
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Posted By : Mark Wessendorff, 09-Apr-2005,
08:05pm
Sorry the picture did not attach in my first post. Here it is..
Any help most appreciated
Mark

Light Fracture in top of engine block
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Posted By : Colin Wake, 09-Apr-2005,
08:42pm
I wonder if there was a bit of liquid or similar at the bottom of the hole as hydralic pressure can cause that sort of damage.
Colin
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Posted By : Steve Smith, 09-Apr-2005,
11:06pm
Mark,
The first thing I observe is that you should have a 1-3 thread chamfer on the top of the stud bores to relieve the likelihood of pulling the
top threads proud of the block. As you see no evidence of a crack in the threads I'd advocate starting with that and see where the cracks
go.
Your risk here is having the cracks progress after the engine is on the road and relaxing the clamping force on that section of the head with a
possible blown head gasket. Worst case would be a section of block breaking loose and falling into a lifter cup chewing up the pushrod. That
said, the MK 1 with the 3/8"? studs isn't providing all that much clamping force to start with. I'd say take a cut with a countersink and then
have your local auto machinist give it a chemical crack check and determine how extensive the cracking is. On a street car you may well be
fine.
As others have indicated, the studs should only go in finger tight.
Hope that helps and Good Luck!
Steve in Las Vegas
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Posted By : Mark Wessendorff,
10-Apr-2005, 09:51am
Thank you all for your help on this. I think I will try the cement paste and only torque the nuts down to 46lbs/sqft and see if it holds
and in then look for an old donor MK1 engine incase it doesn't.
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Posted By : Adrian Lee,
10-Apr-2005, 03:27pm
Mark,if it needs a new engine I have a spare MK1 2 litre, out of a Vitesse ,it was running 150 comp/per cylinder but obviously i cannot
garuntee it.I have not had it in bits so have no idea if it's been rebuilt or not.The car had 65000 on the speedo when i took it out
,though that does not mean anything.Though it did not blow oil or rattle before i took it out.Contact me off board if you need it.Or if
anyone else out there needs one,the skip is beckoning !!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Posted By : Colin
Wake, 10-Apr-2005, 07:12pm
Adrian
If it is an early one then someone out there will be looking fof it!!
Is the engine number less than 5000???
Colin
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Posted By : Jonathan Binnington,
09-Apr-2005, 09:04pm
Mark, the tread lock cement repair may work, but Ithink a replacement block is needed. Mk1 engines come up on ebay from time to time, I'll keep a
watching brief for you, unless anyone has an unused block out there?
I have two Mk2 blocks but they aren't easily interchangable because the head studs are different sizez
bin
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Posted By : Colin Lindsay, 09-Apr-2005,
08:45pm
I've done a few heads / blocks now and never torqued the studs down, just screwed them in finger tight once the end of the thread had been reached. Be
very careful when referring to the Haynes manual; after the head has been fitted the nuts on the studs should be torqued down to 42 - 46; I think
Haynes has a very confusing reference which seems to quote an incorrect figure of 64 - 68 or thereabouts. I found this the hard way after wringing
three studs in quick succession!!
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Posted By : Mark Wessendorff, 10-Apr-2005,
12:54pm
With the Haynes manual not being accurate in the torque settings I would like to get another workshop manual. Please can I have any advice on which
are the best ones and where to get them. Thanks